1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Battery light on power drains when

Tiny
SQUIDMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 123,000 MILES
After a recent repair, cv half shaft replacement, lower ball joint, and new battery terminals, the car battery light was on. After dring a few miles the car head lights, gauge lights dimmes, and enginee sputered and quit slowely as did power steering. The car enginee will start when it is jumped but will soon die a slow death. I belive the problem is the alternator. The polarity on the battery terminals was briefly switched buy the villege idiot and smoke came from the ignition and the car would not start. Then this major problem occured when the polarity was set in the correct positon. PLEASE HELP I AM STUCK IN THE MIDDLE OF NO WHERE AND THIS CAR IS THE ONLY WAY I HAVE TO GET TO WORK. What should I fix and how should I do it to make this P.O.S run again.
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Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 1:29 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
First of all, have you tested the alternator and determined that it is indeed the problem before the polarity issues? Second, switching polarity can "blow" many fuses and/or relays. You will have to check every single fuse and relay until you find the one (or more) that are "blown" so you can replace them.
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Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 2:14 AM
Tiny
SQUIDMAN
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I will check the fuses with a multimeter. I did a visual inspection and none appeared blown, I will test with a meter. I checked the voltage on the battery it was low it was around 4 volts instead of the normal 12 volts, it is a new battery, so the polarity switch drained it when the damage occured. Also I did some reading on alternators and it appears that they generate power, the car will run brifely when it is jumped but will quickly die. Also when the polarity was switched in the wrong position there was excesive sparking on the battery leads, small ammounts of smoke came from the ignition where the key goes, and it would not start. When it was switched to the correct polarity it started perfectly and ran for a bit then the lights dimmed the enginee sputtered and it died, and would no longer start unless jumped, but as I said it quickly dies.
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Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 8:18 AM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
Then, yes, all you need is a new alternator. You could have got lucky and no fuses were hurt at all. After you change alternator, post your results and I will follow up. Also, when you jump the car and it starts, it is running off of the battery alone if the alternator is shot (not the alternator). This is why it keeps dieing quickly and also the reason your new battery is drained.
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Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 12:37 PM
Tiny
SQUIDMAN
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I finaly got the alternator replaced. The voltage drop on the battery has stoped. There are a few new concerns though, the car starts the first time I turn the key runs ok but sounds as if it has way more power then before, also the needle moves up and down slightly. And the battery light comes on when the car reaches normal operating temprature. Also the heater and defrost doesn't work. Where should I start to fix these problems. I checked the fuses there were 4 small fuses blown 2 10's and 2 15 fuses. I will replace them, could they be causing the heat to not come on and the battery light to stay on.
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Thursday, November 20th, 2008 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
It's possible, depends on what the fuses are related to. Just post your results after you have replaced them so I will know if you still have the issues.
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Friday, November 21st, 2008 AT 12:06 AM

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