How To Replace Right side front axle

Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 100,000 miles.

How do I replaced the right front drive axle (passenger side)?

During tire rotation schedule, I noticed that the passenger side CV boot was leaking grease and torn so I decided to replace the axle assembly. It’s much easier to replace the whole assembly than replacing the boot with all the work involved.

I bought a new one instead of the re-manufactured one because the later do not have a collar that covers the gasket on the entry port of tran-saxle like the original one. Also the new one came with a new nut that is recommended for replacement too.

Before raising the right front wheel, loosen the Axle Nut with (36 mm or 1-3/8") socket (do not remove the nut and do not remove the cotter pin yet at this time.). This nut is tightened between 174 and 231 ft-lbs so you need a breaker bar or impact wrench. I ended up using the 230 ft-lbs electric impact wrench because I was concerned when the 25-inch breaker bar started to bend a little bit with my own force. I also squirt soaked the thread with a thread loosening oil before hand.

Loosen the wheel lug nuts.

Chuck both rear tires and jack up the right front wheel and support the vehicle with jack stands. Always provide maximum support to the vehicle when raising it.
I raised the driver side wheel also and set it on top of a ramp and also positioned two jack stands on both under the Control arm mounting brackets near the stabilizer bar. Another jack stand I positioned also underneath the big shield plate near the front of the vehicle just below the drive axle assembly. Before going under the vehicle, I always try to shake the vehicle to make sure my supports are holding good.

Remove the right front wheel. I slide the wheel under the car with another ramp on top of it by the passenger side by the door.

With a brake cleaner, I sprayed clean the brake rotor area and brake pads to remove brake dust particles.

Remove the brake caliper and hang tie support it to the strut spring so as not to strain the brake hose.

Remove the brake rotor.

Remove the cotter pin and the axle nut.

Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod lower ball joint and loosen the nut as far down as you could without removing it from the thread. Separate the ball joint with a joint separator tool and make sure you grease the tool so as not to damage the rubber on the ball joint when force inserting it between the ball joint and the steering knuckle. After separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle, remove the nut and lift out the ball joint.

Remove the 3 nuts under the control arm by the ball joint below the axle end.

Remove the lower nut and bolt from the strut and just loosen the top bolt.
Separate the wheel hub from the axle. Use a 2 or 3 jaw puller if you need it.
Swing the wheel hub up pivoting by the upper bolt on the strut and tie support it to the strut spring.

Put a towel on top and along the control arm and lay the axle end on top to support.
Go under the vehicle and loosen the 3 axle bearing retaining bolts. Do not remove the bolds yet as you need to tap on them to push the bearing with the shaft out the retaining bracket. I used a swivel nut driver adapter and extender to reach to these bolts.

Push tap the bolts to get the bearing off the supporting bracket. Do not attempt to pull the axle end to remove the axle.

Installation of the new one is reverse process.
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have the same problem?
Monday, August 2nd, 2010 AT 8:54 PM

1 Reply

Thanks for that information, it will definitely help in the future.
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Monday, August 2nd, 2010 AT 9:29 PM

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