1997 Mercury Villager No power

I took the starter off and the solenoid is attached to it. I had it checked at a local auto parts store, and all of it checks out. I replaced it, and I checked all the fuses on the inside, and few were out of place. I fixed those. Now I notice that when I put the key in and attempt to crank it, the accelerator cable buzzes ( humms ). Any ideas what that could be and would that be likely my whole problem?

Where is your negative cable hooked up?

The battery cables are hooked up properly. When I went to the auto parts store they told me to check them too, it's hooked to the frame.

I also found out what the buzzing was. It is the AAC controller. The guy at the auto parts store said that has nothing to do with the loss of power.

I also found out that when I try to crank the engine there is a faint popping sound coming from the fuse box, but I checked all the fuses and followed the diagram in the book, they were all good, and none were burned out. Another thing is that I have power for the blower in the back of the van, for the rear A/C and heat.

Sorry for the long posts but I figure every little bit helps narrow my problem down. Thanks for the help.

Popping in the fuse box would be an arcing connection and from a fairly high consumption source. Is the starter circuit run through your fuse box?

I have no idea how can I check on that?
Also there are 5 big square boxes ( I think they are fuses too ) inside the fuse box, but I can't get them pulled to check on them.

You are looking at the powertrain fuse panel right? Those square boxes are relays. There might be one to the starter, and yes they are hard to remove. Some are soldered to a fuse panel circuit board so make sure you don't have one of these kinds. There should be a listing of all the fuses and what they go to on the cover of your fuse box. You can always trace the wires on your starter and see where they come from. You should have two wires. One will come from a starter relay and is usually mounted on the passenger side fender. The other will be run back up to the negative on your battery terminal.

On the cover of the fuse box is the list of what the fuses are, but there is no mention of what the big square ones are. I decided to recheck the neg battery ground, and when I pulled on it, the top of the bolt broke off. I am going to tap it and replace it tomorrow. Could that be the problem? If it is, then why did I have rear blowers and headlights?

A bad ground would effect the entire electrical system, although it would be most noticable on things that draw a large amount of current (I.E. Starter, blower motor, headlights). If you are having problems with individual components check all the fuses and make sure none are blown and that they are even in place.

I regrounded the neg battery cable, and checked all the fuses I could see. When I regrounded the neg calbe, I tried to get it to crank again. This time there was a louder click coming from under the steering column, so I know there is some power there somewhere. I am still lost on why I have no dash lights, wipers, stereo, and no start in the engine.
I do however still have rear blowers, and head lights. Anything else I can check on?

Check the 12V feed to your fuse box for proper voltage. You can try using a voltmeter and test all of those fuses to see what kind of voltage you get when the ignition is on. Also check the ignition switch if you hear clicking on the steering column.