IT would be my pleasure.
Take a look here, to start with:
A couple things to add to this, or reinforce:
Using a quality caliper lube and making everything clean before applying is very important to a good brake job.
Once the caliper bracket is off the rotor will come off. If it is stuck, whack it with a hammer from behind, and turn 1/4 rotation, every other whack until it breaks free.
You'll need a set of metric wrenchs, probably (14,15 and 17 mm..I think), a large pair of channel locks or c-clamp to push in the piston after the caliper is removed. Just unbolt the caliper, do not remove or disconnect the brake hose. And remember when re-installing the caliper to not twist the brake hose. Pay attention to how it looks installed now before removing it...It must go back on the same way.
After both front wheels are jacked up and supported with jack stands...(You don't want the car to fall down) and the wheel are removed, turn the wheel so it is easy to get to the back bolts. These small ones come off first. Once they are out you can pry the caliper away from the caliper bracket.
Next are the bolts to the caliper bracket...These are going to be tight. To get more leverage you can interlock the wrenches.
Now the rotor can be removed.
Look at where the rotor mounts to the hub...The surface where the lug studs come out of. This surface can not have anything other than a clean flat face. Anything else and it will cause a pulsation.
This pins must be clean and shiny prior to lubricating them ...the caliper must move on these are you'll burn out the new brakes. USe this:
The above pics are of your caliper, the following are not, but areas that need to be clean and lubed:
Any questions, fire away!!!!
You should also clean and adjust the rear brakes at the same time as the fronts are done...get through this, and then we can go to the rears.
Saturday, November 10th, 2007 AT 8:36 AM