Did he test it?
Did he check the vacuum line to it?
Here is more info.
MAP SENSOR CHECKS
First, make sure engine manifold vacuum is within specifications at idle. If vacuum is unusually low, there may be a vacuum leak (leaky hose connection, intake manifold or throttle body gasket, power brake booster, etc.), An exhaust restriction (clogged converter), or an EGR leak (EGR valve not closing at idle).
A low intake vacuum reading or excessive backpressure in the exhaust system can trick the MAP sensor into indicating there's a load on the engine. This may result in a rich fuel condition.
A restriction in the air intake (such as a plugged air filter), on the other hand, may produce higher than normal vacuum readings. This would result in a load low indication from the MAP sensor and possibly a lean fuel condition.
Next, check the sensor's vacuum hose for kinks or leaks. Then use a hand-held vacuum pump to check the sensor itself for leaks. The sensor should hold vacuum. Any leakage calls for replacement.
An outright failure of the MAP sensor, loss of the sensor signal due to a wiring problem, or a sensor signal that is outside the normal voltage or frequency range will usually set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and turn on the Check Engine light.
A MAP sensor can also be bench tested by applying vacuum to the vacuum port with a hand vacuum pump. With 5 volts to the reference wire, the output voltage of an analog MAP sensor should drop.
Wednesday, April 29th, 2009 AT 8:53 AM