Tail and dash lights stopped working at the same time

Are you sure you are looking at the correct fuse? It is the fuse "park lps" #9 in the I/P fuse block and it should be hot on both sides of that fuse with twelve volts all the time.

Hello,

Here is a guide and the running light wiring diagram so we can test to see where we are losing power.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Can you please check for power at fuse #9 and #14? Here is the wiring diagram for the cluster we must be losing power somewhere.

Hi guys. Look at your old switch to see if two terminals are black or overheated. If they are, the mating terminals in the connector have to be cut out and replaced individually.

The voltage missing on fuse 14 comes through the dimmer portion of the switch assembly. (Be sure the switch is turned on when you're checking for that voltage on fuse 14). Since that is missing, you will find it's also missing on the brown wire at the switch connector. That's the wire that feeds the tail lights. We know both the tail light and dash light circuits aren't going to develop their own problems at the same time. Instead, your old switch is defective and the new one is the wrong part, or there's a break somewhere in what they have in common. That is the orange wire at the switch.

Check for 12 volts on that orange wire. If it's missing there, that wire has a break in it, either inside the fuse box, or at the terminal in the switch connector.

The tail light circuit has nothing to do with the brake lights. You found the brake lights are working correctly, so the brake light switch can't be shorted. If it was, the brake lights would be on all the time.

You've already narrowed the cause down to a tiny part of the circuit; the switch, one wire feeding the switch, or the terminal in the connector. Why are you going off to other areas when we know where the problem is located?

Do you have constant 12 volts on the orange wire in the head light switch's connector?

The tail light circuit does not pass through the stop lamp switch. That orange wire for the tail lamps (park lamps) goes from the park lamps fuse #9 to the headlamp switch and it is not the same orange wire that goes from the stop/haz fuse #1 to the stop lamp switch.
You know of course you have to have the light switch on before checking that fuse #14 for voltage and also when testing fuses for voltage you have to test both sides of the fuse.
I think you have a bad headlights switch!

That fuse comes after the defect. We've determined that already. Stick to the head light switch. The 12-volts feeding it comes in on the orange wire. Do you have 12 volts on that wire?

If you have a test light, that can be more accurate for some tests than a digital voltmeter. We know we're in the right area, so there's no point in going on until we know what is on that orange wire.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers, Ken