Knock sensor, code P0330

Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 DODGE CHARGER
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 166,000 MILES
Hi, I was hoping someone could tell me about a faulty knock sensor on a 5.7 hemi. It's gave me a trouble code of p0330, it's been accelerating kind of funny sometimes too. Sometimes it feels like it pulling a heavy trailer on takeoff, other than that the engine runs and idles smooth. Is this something fairly easy to replace myself or should I have a shop do it? And is it okay to drive it like this for a little while? Thanks in advance!
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Monday, September 28th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM

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Tiny
DL AUTOSHOP
  • MEMBER
Hello, I'm Danny.

I've attached diagnostic steps below for code P0330 you mentioned. Replacement is fairly easy for the knock sensor. I would fix sooner than later as having a smooth running car gives better performance and gas mileage. Here is a tutorial showing what is involved for knock sensor replacement:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-knock-sensor-works

I've also attached steps below for knock sensor replacement for your car. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Monday, September 28th, 2020 AT 1:23 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
Hello Danny,

I decided to take it to a reputable shop to have them further diagnose and fix that trouble code and/or sensor, once they scanned it with a tool they said code P0330 didn't show up, instead it's a P1521 with the other 3 codes I already knew about. Is it possible that the car is showing a code that isn't there? I just went ahead and rolled away but should I go ahead and assume that the sensor is okay? Thanks!
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Monday, October 5th, 2020 AT 2:08 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

The P1521 deals with the oil viscosity being used. Are you using 5w20?

As far as the other codes you have, the p0420 and p0430 which showed on the instrument panel are related to the catalytic converters. If they are plugged, you will experience power loss.

Take a look through this link to see if it mirrors what you have experienced. The second link explains how to check the converters. It indicates to remove the converter to see if power is regained. However, if you remove the o2 sensors pre cat, you should notice a difference if power has been lost.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Keep in mind, the first code you indicated is related to the knock sensor. It is responsible for fine tuning ignition timing. When they fail, often times you will hear valve clatter on acceleration.

Let us know what is found. Also, let us know if the catalytic converters show severe discoloration, if there is an exhaust leak, or if there are any dents or damage to the converters.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, October 6th, 2020 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
Hi!

Yeah, I usually take my car to my nearest Dodge dealership for my oil changes because it's almost the same price if I did it myself with oil and a filter and it's much quicker. I'm pretty sure they're using the right velocity of oil at least it's what it shows on the sticker they put on my windshield, they don't ask what oil type I want but I just figured being a dealership they'd know what to do, someone said I should be using full synthetic oil because of the age and mileage but I'm not sure.
As for the o2's and catalytic converters the person that owned it before me messed with the catalytic converters and the whole exhaust system and messed up one of the o2 sensors post cat on the driver side, the catalytic converters are also messed with pretty bad and welding was very bad, I think it has a slight exhaust leak but I've already had it looked at by a performance car expert and he said I'm definitely losing some power but until I can afford to deal with it I should be fine, I'm planning on having the entire exhaust system redone soon, from new headers to exhaust tips.
As for the knock sensor the code came up on the dash like in the video, but when I took it to a shop they said they didn't see the code on their scanner, the engine runs and drives and idles very smooth and there's only the roar of the engine, not really any other noise, except when it's cold it'll vibrate slightly but it goes away, my acceleration is funny at times and I just had the transmission rebuilt recently so I'm not sure if it's from one of the trouble codes or something else.
I appreciate all your help guys, let me know what you think! Thanks!
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Tuesday, October 6th, 2020 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The person that checked the exhaust, did he feel that there could be a problem with them starting to plug? That can certainly cause power loss. Plus, the codes indicate they are failing. That's why I'm asking.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
Yeah, he did look at them for a good minute. He seems to think that maybe they've been gutted, they both look like they've been taken off and put back on. He said they should be fine until I can get something done on them. The 02 sensor on the driver's side was messed with pretty bad, the bong port for it has another one brazed on top of it and he said that's going to keep it from getting a good reading. Hence the one code and the other code because of the cats possibly being gutted or whatever was done to them, he said the 02 that's throwing the code shouldn't effect performance it's the pre cat 02's that do, but I think my car is good example of someone messing with the exhaust possibly trying to gain performance and sound but doing more harm than good. He said he's seen worse, but the car does drive good and idles smooth it just has funny acceleration at times, does it sound like it'll be okay just for a few months? Let me know, thanks!
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 6:27 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

I would think it should be okay. I'm not sure how many miles you drive it, but if it isn't excessive, there shouldn't be a problem.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
DL AUTOSHOP
  • MEMBER
Hello again.

I know a lot can happen in 14 years and 166,000 miles but sounding like what you've mentioned about the catalytic converters it sounds like they have been cut open and the substrate all removed. It's possible the previous owner new this and instead of replacing he just gutted them. You might not need to replace the entire exhaust system but If I were you I would just replace the converters and fix the o2 sensor bung to save money. Keep us updated and let us know what happens. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 10:04 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
Hi Danny!

Sorry it has been awhile. I still have the trouble code for wrong oil type. I checked with the dealership on the type of oil it's supposed to have (i.E. Conventional, synthetic etc.) And they looked it up and they said it calls for conventional. So what should I do? Could it be a sensor? Thanks!
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Sunday, January 10th, 2021 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
DL AUTOSHOP
  • MEMBER
Hello again.

Yes, having the wrong engine oil can wreak havoc. The oil that is required for your for your 2005 Dodge Charger 5.7L car is 5W-20 conventional oil. Yes, it does make a difference and I've had to go through with this with a 2005 Honda Accord I'm driving now having the wrong type of engine oil until I changed it -the oil- and got the car to run right including the check engine light being on. Funny, how just engine oil oil can mess things up. Here is a tutorial showing how to change engine oil with filter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-engine-oil-and-filter

I've attached 2 pictures below. Let us know how things are going and if you have any further questions on this issue. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Tuesday, January 12th, 2021 AT 12:03 AM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
Thanks Danny,

When I went to have it changed on the 4th I made sure that's what they were putting in it, as far as I know it's running the same as always. I feel the engine vibrate like something is kicking on then off at say a stop light. I figured it's the mds, other than that it runs good.
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Sunday, January 17th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
DL AUTOSHOP
  • MEMBER
Hello again.

Just to verify, is the check engine light on during this issue still?
Let us know and we'll go from there. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
Hi Danny,

Yes, the check engine light is still on, and the one for the oil type remains.
I recently took it to a shop to have the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs replaced and I talked to the head mechanic there about it, I told him I take it to the Dodge/Chrysler dealership for its oil changes regularly and that I asked them if they were putting the right oil in it and that they did look it up and it called for conventional, he said he's had a couple of car's like mine in there with a wrong oil type and a oil temperature code and he changed their oil with I think he said semi-synthetic and it took both codes away, so maybe I should try that? What do you think?
Thanks for all your help!
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
DL AUTOSHOP
  • MEMBER
Hello again.

Yes, keep us updated as to what is found out with this oil issue. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Saturday, January 23rd, 2021 AT 5:02 PM

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