1983 Jeep CJ7 brake lights

Tiny
VPMJR@EARTHLINK.NET
  • MEMBER
  • 1983 JEEP CJ7
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 17,000 MILES
Only work when head lights are on
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 5:28 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile,

I can understand stuff happening over the years.I have a '77 and a '46. Babied!

Others I have seen in much worse shape.

The Headlights and Tail light circuits Should not Act As "ONE"

In the "Headlight Switch" the 2 circuits are segregated from each other (headlamps//running lights.)

That doesn't mean I'm racist or anthiing, I do not even watch that NASCAR stuff!

Has there been any Modifications to the Lighting on your Jeep?

Are you sure this is the "BRIGHTER Brake Lights"----and----Not "the DIMMER TAIL-LIGHTS" that are coming on?Important to know which element is burning in your bulbs. Bright or Dim! Both the same?

What do your front PARK Lights do just on. Stepping on the brake?

Please also NOTE, whether the bulbs are CONSISTANT with each other. Left & Right. Front & Rear. Bright and Dim elements! You might have to remove the lenses to actually see what I am talking about.

You should have---Park/ tail/ sidemarkers/dash AT POSITION 1, on your Light SwitchYours, whats happening at that point, just doing this?

You should have the same in Position 2Add on Head LightsYours, whats going on with all of the system. Just doing this?

What about the 2 above scenerios. But step on the brake. What happens, with each individual light (frt and Rear). In each scenerio?

What do you have with Turn Signals?

Turn signals----standing on brakes?

Is the Bright or Dim element blinking in the Bulbs?

Standing on brakes and Lights on POS 1----POS 2. Turn signals do what?

Was this Fine in the Immediate Past?

Have you ever had them work correctly, with this Jeep in your possession?

Have you wired in Trailer Lights, recently?

Changed the light switch?

Spliced wires Anywhere?

Pull all of your Small bulbs (exterior)----insure they are in correctly, not just CRAMMED in, any ole way. Don't worry with headlights yet.

Please list stuff I want (maybe in an order, better than I presented them to you!)---Numerically and MEGA Detail. This might help alot. Add in anything else that you can come up with!

Are you able to Take stuff loose on your Jeep?

Are You COMPETENT with a Test Light and Voltmeter. Anybody on your end. Really know how to do this, or SCARED of it?

I may give you some tests to try later.

I will really try to help you thru this. May take some time and testing!

This sorta thing will drive you crazy, even if I were right there with you.

Please understand the need for STUPID and ACCURATE information.

I like Trouble shooting CJs!

Your Turn

The Medic
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 6:43 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
DANG! Somebody lock you in a closet! Where you been so long?

I saw you gave me a "Vote". Thanks!

I sent you a "PM" (Private Message) Look for it up next to "Log In", "Veiw Your Posts"."Search" ETC. When you log in.

Please read it

Anything Pertaining to Fixin' your Baby, Go to "REPLY TO QUESTION" (BELOW THIS ANSWER)

Thanks

The Medic
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Friday, October 22nd, 2010 AT 4:31 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
This is PART of what you said in "PM"...................

ignition off; hazards work, ignition on, switch off; parking lights work, r&l turn indicators work, hazards light blink; ignition on,(run) switch on #1, parking lights work, turn indicators r&l work, hazards work, hazards w/turn no blink; switch on #2 parking lights work, r&l turn indicators work, hazards work, hazards w/turn no blink, headlights work. the dash lights work except the light switch. yes the wiring has been hacked, but only to replace it all with a complete new painless. mo wires left hanging or not connected. it was done by an, a/r, ee, engineer so i am confident. the turn indictor, steering wheel switch wasn't touched.

A BIT CONFUSING!!!

This is what I gather..........

1) IGN OFF: Hazards work (Is it the BRIGHT ELEMENT in EACH FRONT AND REAR BULB BLINKING OR THE DIMMER ELEMENT BURNING?)

2)IGN ON: Park lights on constant, w/ light switch off...Is this what you are saying? BRIGHT BULB ELEMENTS OR THE DIM? (Definite problem if so)

3) Dash lamp at "LIGHTS" may be burned out (This socket can EZily be checked, by removing the assembly and checking the socket for 12V, Light switch on)

4) Hazards w/ Turn Signal, Turn Sig not supposed to work.....only hazard.......I misunderstand?

5) Even an engineer can mess up.....looks to be the case!.....If this has been going on forever since you got this Jeep.

6) IF YOU WOULD, answer questions and correspond with my numbers.

IT MIGHT BE EZer to tell me what is not working when it should......or working when it shouldn't! PLEASE Number and Each position list all that is not functioning correctly.......Such as:

1) "Key Off" : this and that works right, but this is on and should not be......still OFF, I pull to park light position this and that, headlight position on, this and that happens

2) Key on : this and that, turn on park lights---this and that happens, turn on headlights this and that happens

3) ETC...ETC

I think you have figured out the brake light switch, NORMALLY OFF when pedal is "UP" switch button pushed in, "ON" when button is OUT, pedal is down.

I made a pic of mine (1977 CJ 5 258) using a mirror (center of pic, above and half-left of the red wire)


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_CJ_BRAKE_LIGHT_SWITCH_1.jpg



Usually the "Moved" Switch occurs when you pull the linkage loose from the Master Cylinder...and the pedal moves further than when it was "captured".

After it moves a lot, the Plastic threads get worn, and it seems to move on its own.....Rearward movement is most common (Brake Lights Stay On Constantly)

On another CJ I had I took one of those "Collar" type nuts, (found on toggle switches ETC.) and "Backed it up" in front of the switch holder, with the nut threaded down on the plastic switch

I have been "Pouring Over" my wiring diagrams, they show how it is supposed to be, YOURS is how it isn't!

I'm just wild guessing without more info

We will DEFINITELY have to do some "TESTING"

Do you have a voltmeter?

Do you have a test light?

Can you run a voltmeter?

Can you do continuity tests that I prescribe?

If not, we must again talk in "PM"

Your Turn (reply to question, below)

The Medic
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Sunday, October 24th, 2010 AT 11:15 PM

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