Clutch pedal goes to the floor

See my profile, votes, read my negative point post.

I can show you this whole deal, and how I overcame it, after about 3 clutch episodes!

I will "pm" you, so you can see the modification.

Okay John, here's my best advice, and pics that nobody else on here will take time, to give you. I am a member here, just like you, except i have been coming here 10 times a day, since 19 dec 08

If this is just an adjustment, follow below.

If this were sudden nonoccurence thing--something else may be--broke/ bent/ etc. To get this, this far out of adjustment---all of a sudden.

Investigate other stuff 1st for problems, before you "over-adjust" trying to compensate for a real problem...a problem that could get worse.

Might make you smack the guy stopped in front of you!

This adjustment below, will only take out, just so much slack----before you unscrew it all the way off, and your real problem, is really not solved (and have no adjustment left)

I doubt your clutch is the issue here........ The way it sounds, its your linkages, from the upper end of your clutch pedal--thru the bell crank--and down the adjusting rod to the "throw-out bearing arm" (which the arm may be bent or broke)--"a sudden occurrence problem"not a suddenly needing an adjustment, has happened to you!

These pics are not out of a book, i took them, and went thru the motions, just for you !

I am on my back, behind drivers side front tire, looking forward and up....(in pic--down is forward---up is rear ward) long 3/4 nut (adjuster) and 9/16 regular nut (lock nut) are the adjustments....the black shiny thing at the top, of the adjuster (toward rear of jeep), is the clutch arm, coming out of the bell housing

Holding 3/4 still, push bottom of 9/16 left, to break lock-nut loose, you may have to flip your wrench over several times, this is a tight-spot against my exhaust.

On mine once the lock-nut is loose, you can spin the big/ long nut, with your fingers, yours might not be that loose. (3/4 nut is the adjuster) facing front of jeep, (from behind the drivers side tire) and the clutch arm end of adjuster is at the rear, ccw will make pedal rise

Too much pedal, will keep pressure plate of clutch, like being slightly "disengaged" (like riding the clutch with your foot, but permanently, from a bad adjustment)

You should have about 1 inch of pedal play, at the top of your pedal, before you feel clutch starting to engage---anything else is wrong and you maybe should investigate why you do not have enough adjustment left on the rod....something bent/broke/bolts falling out/etc., making correct adjustment impossible!

This is a view, down thru the hood, drivers side (my 6 cylinder) of the wrenches, on the adjuster (from the bottom), you cannot really do this from above, just showing you location (i rubber-banded wrenches in place for pics)

This is the bell crank system: 2 angle iron brackets with "pivots", one on body, one on engine,
Internal bushings in bell crank, adjustment rod, pedal rod---all primitive

My mods make this 500% better, in my albums, i have old system (all parts) and my modified system (sorta laid out in a exploded view)

You can see most of the original parts in my albums--in "inspection, exploded view, display fashion"

Questions?

I will stay with you on this, until you get it figured out...seek buddy assistance, checking out your stuff

Did you see "pm" #2 ?

Just want to help you (that's partially how i learned jeep stuff)..... Others often "pm" me for additional help.

Hey feller!

Back when that answer was made, we had a little more "do as you wish" lee-way. The "album" was made at Walmart photos (now expired), the cool thing was you could arrange your photos and tell a story below them. If you wanted someone to see the "album(s)" you simply added their email address to the Walmart album. Presto! They had it!

I had many many albums but they are a thing of the past.

I still have the pics and can "wing it" in the forum!

The original mechanical system will "saw" itself into.

Then it fails!

Either the vertical clutch rod will saw through the bell crank "hole" or the hole will saw through the rod. The same goes for the clutch pedal hole (up on the top end of the pedal)

Along with this failure, the bell crank "ends" (nylon pivots) wear out and the "smoothness" of the pedal being depressed fails or gets hard to push.

Here's where I'll attempt to explain the deal! Center to center holes are measured and marked as to keep these points in the same spots after the modification is implemented (keeping the lengths or throws the same as before)

Ask if I don't make it clear!

Pic 1 and 2) 2 "doughnuts" are cut out using 1/4" flat steel. I used a drill press and 2 hole saws. I used the pilot bit and cut both holes maybe 7/8 through. I then took off the pilot and cut the smaller hole all the way out. Then did the same for the outer hole saw (oiling all the way to cool it was a must!)

I measured the old hole's center off of the bell crank's body and centered my 1st doughnut on that hole. I then marked the "old flat steel" on the bell crank. Then I sawed off the old hole and welded my doughnut onto the "old flat" of the bell crank.

End result- Big hole in the same exact spot as the the smaller original.

Insert roller bearing, the clutch rod, a big washer on either side. Top it off with a cotter pin. Pic 1) bearing in place, Pic 2) washers in place.

Pic 2 and 3 and 4) Remove clutch pedal (fun!). With a slightly larger hole saw than the doughnut chuck it up and vise down the pedal tight in the vise. I think I did not use a pilot bit and slowly lowered the hole saw into the pedal's hole insuring it stayed centered. (Pic 4 is "in place")

When finished, I installed doughnut number 2, insuring it was "square" or "perpendicular" in the new (over the old) hole before I welded it in place.

End result- Big hole centered perfectly where the old one was.

Install bearing, Clutch rod then a washer on either side and a cotter pin.

I'm going to let this portion soak in!

I'm going to look for the part numbers and descriptions of the bearings and the dimensions of them so you can select the hole saw sizes. The sizes were snug when all was done (no floppy holes). This did take some thinking and testing (hole sawing) before I started actually chopping on stuff.

My modification is still in place after being installed in 2010, It works just as smooth as "Day 1", It has no wear!

Respond if we are okay thus far!

We will continue with the rest of the mod!

The Medic