1972 Jeep CJ5

Tiny
BILLWRIGHT1
  • MEMBER
  • 1972 JEEP CJ5
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 35,000 MILES
How do you remove the shift lever support in a jeep with a Model 20 transfer case. The pin on the shift lever support broke. I removed the cap screws holding the lever support to the transfer case but can not remove the support
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Friday, April 2nd, 2010 AT 2:07 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile, I have owned several CJs, Have rebuilt, helped with and done many improvements to mine.

If you want, in your response, tell me if you would like to see my mods in my Walmart Album Sharing. Leave me Email address here or in "PM" private message.

I have dealt with the Model 20 many times, mostly on the bench, (seals or painting) rarely still attached in the Jeep, seldom have problems with them.

I saw your question, researched my MANUALs and took my inspection mirror and studied mine.

Mine is a '77 CJ5. Had 5 other CJ5s '76-'83. Ours may have slight differences.

Just to make sure we are talking about the SAME ANIMAL.

I am under my Jeep, my head is sorta under the oil filter, feet near passenger rear wheel, I am facing the front of the transfer case.

The "FRONT BEARING CAP" is the cast iron deal, bolted to the front, that the front output shaft sticks out of.

About 2 o'clock, from the output shaft, is a "steel rod, or pipe, about 1-1/4 diameter (all of the transfer shifter linkages are attached to this, to include the "U" that the actual shift lever pivots on)

That steel rod SLIDES INTO the cast iron, front bearing cap, and is attached by 2 bolts, (located 1 behind the other) at 12 o'clock, above the cast iron "reciever hole", (for lack of a better word).

My bolts have square heads and stick up slightly (heads not touching).

YOURS might be ALLEN HEAD SET SCREWS---INSIDE THE BOLT HOLES, where you can't see them.(anything is possible)

Just looking in 3 different manuals, I do not see any other bolts, that hold that shaft in. (had mine off on my other previous Jeeps but do not remember a struggle with it)

Maybe you are Free, but the shaft is just a real tight fit, Channel-locks or Vies-grips may help you wiggle it out.

If I have Just wasted our time with the wrong animal , Clarify, and I will try again.

Please respond anyway, let me know your progress. I get few replies, like helping on CJs, anymore problems...let's hear 'em.

Love, Turddog

Just a little "smile" from mine!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_100_0327_1.jpg

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Friday, April 2nd, 2010 AT 3:31 PM
Tiny
BILLWRIGHT1
  • MEMBER
That is the part that I was inquiring about, hoiwever I have tried beating, twisting and every method that I can think and the support will not move. Any other ideas?
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Sunday, April 4th, 2010 AT 11:20 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Is Mr. Transfer Case, still in your rig?

Soaked periodically with penetrating oil?

I know, you don't want to hear this, BUT!......

What about removing, the front yoke assembly, don't lose or damage any shims that may be stuck to it or that may/or may not remain in the front bearing cap.

Then maybe sanding the shift rod ends, lubricate them, then remove the entire front bearing cap, carefully sliding it off of the shift rods.

Make or Order a new gasket for reassembly.

I haven't ever done this, if you removed all linkagesIS THERE ROOM for that foward slide?

JUST WENT OUT, Got into the "Nelsomatic Thinking Position" under mine, for bout 5 minutes.

I could not see any weld or spot weld on it, with my mirror.

Are you certain that, with flashlight and inspection mirrorthere are no bolts you have missed that hold the rod? Or broke off in it?

WHAT IF :

You remove the floor pan around your shifter, You and another victim. One IN---One under.

Take 2 propane torches ( I prefer Turbo Torches, using Mapp Gas, I'm a plumber, they get stuff hotter and faster.)

Quickly heat the cast iron collar, just behind the entrance of the STEEL ROD....top and bottom, simutaniously(sp?)......Get Hot Real Fast...In as short of time as you can....To expand the cast iron.....stay off of the steel rod with flame.....it needs to remain shrunk and cool.

Try not to flame each other!

If you do this fast, I do not think you will hurt the surrounding stuff, it looks far enough away.....do not heat forever......you might even cover bearing portion and the exposed steel rod to keep them cool, with a soaking wet rag before you begin.

Quickly tackle it with tools, twisting and pulling at the same time, as soon as you remove the flames.

Will It WIGGLE, TWIST or Move At All? Even Slightly?

Can you send me a PIC of what is broke, I am a SELF QUALIFIED ENGINEER RIGGER (or something on those same lines).....May can improvise a repair.

Will prove it, when you "PM" you Email address to me or leave it here (you can come back after I get it, And EDIT IT OUT OF YOUR POST!)

See alot of my CJ User Friendly Modifications 6-9 Walmart Album Sharing Albums many-many pics...read the captions.

I WILL Send SUB: JEEPJEEPJEEPJEEPJEEP, may wind up in Spam.........you might even......want to use my ideas on yours!

On Alert!

Love, Turddog

"WILLY" STILL DOES IT, BUT HE STOPPED TAKING NAMES, IN THE MIDDLE OF THE 20TH CENTURY


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_GOOD_OLE_WILLY_1.jpg

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Sunday, April 4th, 2010 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Mr. William,

Without you responding

I remain in the dark about EXACTLY what is broke OR broke off in something else,

It must be something you either have to pull/drill/weld/etc. That you do not have enough clearance to get your grubby little fingers in there to do.

That is probably the exactly the reason why the "Supprt Arm" if you will, HAS TO COME OFF, in your mind!

My offer of Heating the cast iron, may have scared you off.

WHAT ABOUT WORKING AROUND YOUR PROBLEM TO FIX IT?

WHAT ABOUT----REMOVING YOUR SKID-PLATE (MAYBE FRONT OF REAR DRIVESHAFT TOO)

THEN LOWER THE TRANSMISSION/TRANSFER CASE ALL YOU CAN (WITHOUT HITTING ENGINE ON FIREWALL)

COULD YOU ACCESS YOUR FIX THEN? Without taking the rod out of transfer case.

LOVE, TURDDOG
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Monday, April 5th, 2010 AT 1:32 PM

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