Engine Performance problem
2004 Hyundai Accent 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 90322 miles
Recently had the light check engine light come on due to a rapid misfire when we hooked it up. Changed out spark plugs and also went to a short ram intake. Car runs fine but at idle the light will flash and seems to want to cut off but doesn't. Abour 10 seconds after you put the car in drive the light goes away. Just need some help. Thanks!
Can you get the engine scanned again, and give the codes? From the look of it, (just a guess, either the wires or your coil pack), but don't change anything until we get the proper diagnostic..
February, 5, 2009 AT 12:57 AM
Getting it done today. Let ya know as soon as I get it done.
February, 5, 2009 AT 4:54 PM
Got the code today - Code P0-304 (misfire in cylinder #4). Any suggestions?
February, 5, 2009 AT 7:03 PM
1. Pull spark plug #4. Check the gap. Should be about .04". You did get NGK BKR6ES-11, right?
2. Next test your coil. You have 2 coils in 1, and each coil has 2 plugs connected to it. Check the plug wires (one at a time), make sure that there is no burn marks from spark "jumps", frayed or cut wires. Here is how to check the coils.
Let me know.
February, 5, 2009 AT 11:27 PM
Are you sure on the apsrk plugs? If you go to the NGK site and type in '04 Accent. BKR6ES-11 does not come up. Its a BKR5ES11 is the OEM part for it. I think the ones we put in were GP platinum BKR5EGP. I will check the coils and see what I can find there and maybe have to change the plugs back to the OEM.
February, 5, 2009 AT 11:52 PM
Just realize you are missing the secondary coil test.
Back to your question about the spark plug. I got my info from Hyundai's TSB. BKR5ES-11 is equivalent to BKR6ES-11, except it is a hotter plug. It your driving is more highway than city or stop-and-go, you have the better plug. But if you do more city and stop-and-go, you may want to consider going with the 6, colder plug.
I am not a fan of platinum plugs unless it is specifically required the OEM specs. I am not saying that they aren't good, I just have always follow what the OEM specs. Do this, while you are checking the coils, pull #1 and #4 plugs, and compare them. (It would be useful if you can snap a picture and post them.) Check if they are burning off differently. And then swap them. Put #4 plug into #1 cylinder and vice versa. I would be surprise if your next check engine light will show #1 misfire. If it is, then you know that particular plug is defective.
February, 8, 2009 AT 4:40 PM
Alrighty, just changed the spark plugs to BKR5ES-11 (normal highway driving here). Enigine light went off, then came back on at idle. Could not test the coils today (no meter). Could there be something in the timing? In the book its @ 800 100. Thinking abour going ahead and getting new plugs and coil pack for it anyway.
February, 8, 2009 AT 10:05 PM
The coil was my original assumption, I just wanted you to check it before spending a quite a bit of money on it. I also suggest that you replace the wires as well, if they have not been done.
February, 8, 2009 AT 10:10 PM
So no control over timing at idle? Cause this is where the problems seem to occur. Well, just got the wire/coils for a pretty decent price. Hope this works. Driving my nuts. Everything looks good in the wires and coils right that are on the engine. Just confusing.
February, 8, 2009 AT 10:27 PM
Other than making sure your idle is between 650 - 850 rpms, no other adjustments are necessary. Check these meters out, decent price great range. I am just curious to see the numbers out of the coils.