1998 Honda Passport Right bank of cylinders not working

Tiny
CRANDAB
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA PASSPORT
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
Hi, I have a 98 3.2L Passport that runs on 2, 4, 6, cylinders only. 1, 3, 5, are dead. The compression is 90-100 psi on all 6 cylinders. The fuel injectors are pulsing (with a stethescope you can hear the clicking). The plugs are not wet when you remove them but they are black. The plugs and coils have been swapped from side to side. The problem does not swap. The coils-plugs will fire when tested, removed with a ground wire attached and a plug stuck in it. So we have fuel, fire and compression why does it not run? The trouble codes are the general missfire and O2 bank one position one not regeresting. The cat on the right side stays cool. I bought this car as-is not running and found that the timing chain tensioner pully broke its bolt. I replaced it and and have rechecked the timing belt placement 4 times. Please help if you can.
Thanks
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Monday, August 2nd, 2010 AT 5:08 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
First of all thank you so much for your donation. Minimum compression for your engine is 145psi so 90-100psi is pretty low. Are you sure you have everything all timed right?Are sure none of the valve's smacked the piston's?It could be your lack of compression causing the cylinders not to fire.
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Monday, August 2nd, 2010 AT 5:24 PM
Tiny
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I forgot to tell you that it is backfiring through the intake when ever it is off of idle. I'm sure that it is a non interference engine so I don't think the valves were hit. All of the timing marks line up so I'm pretty sure the timing is right.
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Monday, August 2nd, 2010 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
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Well something is causing your compression to be way below minimum specs and to have all of them low make's me think timing that's what they all have in common.
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Monday, August 2nd, 2010 AT 6:17 PM
Tiny
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I'm sorry I gave you the wrong info. I was checking the compression with the engine running. Realizing my error I unpluged the coils on 2, 4, and 6, since they were the ones working and then I cranked the engine over to check the compression on #1 and when I did the engine tried to start with just 3 and 5 hooked up, so I reinstalled #1 and tried to start it with only 1, 3 and 5 hooked up and it started. For about 5 minutes it would run on 1, 3 and 5 but not just on 2, 4 and 6. I then unpluged all 6 coils and checked the compression the right way and they are all at 150. I also hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it is reading 36 and the book says it sould be 42-55psi. I then changed out the fuel filter but it didn't make a difference. Now if I only have 1, 3 and 5 pluged in it will start but immediately die but will start if 2, 4 and 6 are pluged in. I have a couple of ideas, PCM? Fuel pump or pressure regulator? Something else, do you know if the fuel pressure is sapose to bleed off in 5 seconds after you turn the engine off? Mine is.
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Monday, August 2nd, 2010 AT 7:07 PM
Tiny
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http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1998_honda_passport_fuel_pressure_test_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1998_honda_passport_fuel_pressure_test_part2_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1998_honda_passport_fuel_pressure_test_part3_1.jpg


Very strange the way 1 3 5 wasn't running then it was then it wasn't.Let's go with the fuel pressure it's on the low side and it shouldn't bleed down all the way in 5 sec's.So follow the trouble tree i posted i know you don't have a scan tool that can run the fuel pump so do the best you can with it.
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Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010 AT 2:49 PM
Tiny
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I found that the fuel pump had a leaking hose in it so I replaced the hose and now the fuel pressure is right but the car is running exactly the same. I also went to the wrecking yard and got a computer but that didn't work either. I can sometimes get it to switch banks and run on one side to the other but never on both sides. The way I have done it is I unplug the coils on the side that is currently running and then try to start it. It wont start right away but after several attemps of it starting for a couple of seconds then dying it will stumble to life. Then I turn off the ignition and it swaps back to the left side. I have visually looked at the connectors on the computer to see if anything looks afoul but it looks good. What do you think?
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Thursday, August 5th, 2010 AT 3:26 PM
Tiny
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I talked to the previous owner and he stated that it was running just fine untill the bolt on the timing belt tensioner broke. He stated that sometimes it would not start right off and would run the battery down sometimes. That could of been the leak in the fuel pump that I fixed. So what I'm dealing with is it wants to run on the drivers side bank only unless I unplug them and make it run on the pass. Side. When I get it running on the pass. Side and then plug in the coils on the drivers side it contiues to only run on the pass. Side but when I turn the key off and restart it, it runs on the drivers side only. Go figure?
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Thursday, August 5th, 2010 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
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That's some crazy stuff going on there. Let's do this get the one started that always run's and see if the other has any spark while the good side is running. Try not to shock yourself.
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Thursday, August 5th, 2010 AT 9:22 PM
Tiny
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I have done that and they are throwing what appears to be a good spark. I have also pulled out the injectors on the pass. Side out of the head, but still attached to the rail and started it and they were spraying. Do you think any damage could of been done to the valves or cams when the timing belt tensioner broke? That doesn't make any sense to me, it doesn't sound like a mechanical problem but more like a wiring issue. I rented a code scanner from Oreilys but it only reads the codes, if I was to take it to a dealership would they be able to get more info from the car than I can?
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 7:58 AM
Tiny
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As far as just reading engine code's the dealer isn't going to get any different code's in the engine computer that you didn't. They can pull more data stream information and read other computer's you can't. So when the other side was running you had spark and fuel to the other side that wasn't running. So were good there all we have left is compression and timing. You said it wasn't a interference engine are you sure about that?You said you had 150psi on all cylinder's which is within spec.I have seen good compression and bent valve's just enough to cause running issue's. Are we sure the timing is ok?It's really crazy how just one side will run at a time.
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
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Your right it's a non interference fit on the valve's. Hey I was looking at information on your engine and I found there was a buletine about replacing your timing belt. It said that step's were left out in the service manuals so I emailed you the instruction's they had about replacing the timing belt.I would look that over and make sure something wasn't missed. Did you get a new timing belt or did you use the old one?The reason I ask is because there is a direction arrow and timing mark's on the belt. If you loose tension like you did you should have gotten a new belt with new mark's because the mark's wear away and belt stretches.
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 4:39 PM
Tiny
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I went ahead and replaced the timing belt and it is timed properly and nothing has changed. Remember that it is running on one bank or the other and mainly the left side. I can get it to run on the right side if I have the throttle pedal depressed and with the left side unpluged crank it over and it trys to start but dies after 2 seconds but if I turn the ignition key off and on it will run but then dies again so if I keep doing it the rpm will be about 1500 at the highest and then sometimes it will go a little higher and then stay running. While it is running on the right side I have been able to (twice) plug the left side back in and it ran normal like nothing is wrong but as soon as I turn the key off it goes right back to the original problem. While I had it running correctly I have wiggled all the wires on the engine to see if there is a loose one but I was unable to find anything. It seems to me that there might be something being energized during the cranking process but not staying energized when you let off the starter. What do you think?
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Tuesday, August 10th, 2010 AT 2:36 PM
Tiny
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So what your saying is twice the engine ran great like nothing was wrong no misses nothing with both bank's plugged in till you cycled the key?
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Tuesday, August 10th, 2010 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
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Yea but it's not easy to get it to run that way.
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Tuesday, August 10th, 2010 AT 8:38 PM
Tiny
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I emailed you a wire diagram for the engine performance And also for ground distribution. Here's what i'm thinking you have a bad ignition switch or a bad ground or power to the ecm, igniton, or injector's. That doesn't supply enough power or ground to both bank's at the same time for them to run together. So I would check all the powers and ground's to the ecm at the ecm. Take your ohm's meter and make sure there is less then 2 ohm's to all the ground's at the ecm check for power there also. Check your ignition and injectors supply and ground feed's. Try wiggling the ignition around while it's running and see if both bank's will turn on.
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+1
Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for your help. Can you send the diagrams in a different format? I'm unable to enlarge them and I'm not able to read them in there present format.
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 3:54 PM
Tiny
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I can't enlarge them on my end as well try printing them and you should be able to read the printed version of them. If you can't then let me know and I will try to figure something else out.
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-3
Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 3:59 PM

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