Accord

Tiny
DJM.INC
  • MEMBER
  • HONDA ACCORD
I've got a 1995 honda accord automatic 2.2 vtech 164000 miles just replaced head gasket and timing belts. Now at idle it puffs black smoke when you rev it it chokes like it's not getting fuel and won't rev above 3800 rpm any ideas
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 6:47 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Got OBD2 code/s -your running rich-could be a leaky injectors or punctured fuel pressure regulator. I still got more coming.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 7:11 PM
Tiny
DJM.INC
  • MEMBER
Got OBD2 code/s -your running rich-could be a leaky injectors or punctured fuel pressure regulator. I still got more coming.[/Quote:589dbf218b]

no codes black smoke is only at idle leans out when reved?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Got OBD2 code/s -your running rich-could be a leaky injectors or punctured fuel pressure regulator. I still got more coming.[/Quote:4e6530d8b7]

no codes black smoke is only at idle leans out when reved?[/Quote:4e6530d8b7]

Run a high tech fuel injector/s cleaner to it and see what happens

Okay check the coolant temperature sensor and the oxygen sensor/s and tell me what they doing is it switching accordingly to open and closed loop mode.

You need a scan tool to do above.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 7:32 PM
Tiny
DJM.INC
  • MEMBER
Got OBD2 code/s -your running rich-could be a leaky injectors or punctured fuel pressure regulator. I still got more coming.[/Quote:43408120a2]

no codes black smoke is only at idle leans out when reved?[/Quote:43408120a2]

Run a high tech fuel injector/s cleaner to it and see what happens

Okay check the coolant temperature sensor and the oxygen sensor/s and tell me what they doing is it switching accordingly to open and closed loop mode.

You need a scan tool to do above.[/Quote:43408120a2]

checked O2 and cts according to haynes manual w/ volt meter seems ok was wrong about rpm's can't get it over 3000 and thats if you push really slow if you stab it, it stalls. OBD2 code 41 w flashing check engine light haynes calls it o2 sensor heater after reseting ECM no codes. Exhaust was full of water from blown head gasket!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Got OBD2 code/s -your running rich-could be a leaky injectors or punctured fuel pressure regulator. I still got more coming.[/Quote:7276a9a135]

no codes black smoke is only at idle leans out when reved?[/Quote:7276a9a135]

Run a high tech fuel injector/s cleaner to it and see what happens

Okay check the coolant temperature sensor and the oxygen sensor/s and tell me what they doing is it switching accordingly to open and closed loop mode.

You need a scan tool to do above.[/Quote:7276a9a135]

checked O2 and cts according to haynes manual w/ volt meter seems ok was wrong about rpm's can't get it over 3000 and thats if you push really slow if you stab it, it stalls. OBD2 code 41 w flashing check engine light haynes calls it o2 sensor heater after reseting ECM no codes. Exhaust was full of water from blown head gasket![/Quote:7276a9a135]

Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold retest( wear ear muffs ) sounds like clogged-up converter. Also you might want to change the HO2 sensor.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 3:40 PM
Tiny
DJM.INC
  • MEMBER
Got OBD2 code/s -your running rich-could be a leaky injectors or punctured fuel pressure regulator. I still got more coming.[/Quote:ffe0d9ab67]

no codes black smoke is only at idle leans out when reved?[/Quote:ffe0d9ab67]

Run a high tech fuel injector/s cleaner to it and see what happens

Okay check the coolant temperature sensor and the oxygen sensor/s and tell me what they doing is it switching accordingly to open and closed loop mode.

You need a scan tool to do above.[/Quote:ffe0d9ab67]

checked O2 and cts according to haynes manual w/ volt meter seems ok was wrong about rpm's can't get it over 3000 and thats if you push really slow if you stab it, it stalls. OBD2 code 41 w flashing check engine light haynes calls it o2 sensor heater after reseting ECM no codes. Exhaust was full of water from blown head gasket![/Quote:ffe0d9ab67]

Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold retest( wear ear muffs ) sounds like clogged-up converter. Also you might want to change the HO2 sensor.[/Quote:ffe0d9ab67]

disconnected exhaust in front of cat. Wouldn't even start. Discoverd timing was off by a tooth on cam, re-timed it it's a little better but basically still doing the same thing you can now get it to 4000rpm's if you feather it, but now if you hold throttle still at say 2000 rpm's after about 5 seconds it starts to surge between 900rpm's and 2000 rpm's with your foot still
and there are still no codes still runs rich at idle and dies when you press throttle. The most annoying thing is the car ran great before blown head gasket
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 29th, 2007 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
DJM.INC
  • MEMBER
Got OBD2 code/s -your running rich-could be a leaky injectors or punctured fuel pressure regulator. I still got more coming.[/Quote:80b58c97a7]

no codes black smoke is only at idle leans out when reved?[/Quote:80b58c97a7]

Run a high tech fuel injector/s cleaner to it and see what happens

Okay check the coolant temperature sensor and the oxygen sensor/s and tell me what they doing is it switching accordingly to open and closed loop mode.

You need a scan tool to do above.[/Quote:80b58c97a7]

checked O2 and cts according to haynes manual w/ volt meter seems ok was wrong about rpm's can't get it over 3000 and thats if you push really slow if you stab it, it stalls. OBD2 code 41 w flashing check engine light haynes calls it o2 sensor heater after reseting ECM no codes. Exhaust was full of water from blown head gasket![/Quote:80b58c97a7]

Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold retest( wear ear muffs ) sounds like clogged-up converter. Also you might want to change the HO2 sensor.[/Quote:80b58c97a7]

disconnected exhaust in front of cat. Wouldn't even start. Discoverd timing was off by a tooth on cam, re-timed it it's a little better but basically still doing the same thing you can now get it to 4000rpm's if you feather it, but now if you hold throttle still at say 2000 rpm's after about 5 seconds it starts to surge between 900rpm's and 2000 rpm's with your foot still
and there are still no codes still runs rich at idle and dies when you press throttle. The most annoying thing is the car ran great before blown head gasket

[/quote:80b58c97a7] one more thing the 2 prong distributor drive gear that goes into the cam shaft is missing one side
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 29th, 2007 AT 10:23 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Got OBD2 code/s -your running rich-could be a leaky injectors or punctured fuel pressure regulator. I still got more coming.[/Quote:3c3afee02b]

no codes black smoke is only at idle leans out when reved?[/Quote:3c3afee02b]

Run a high tech fuel injector/s cleaner to it and see what happens

Okay check the coolant temperature sensor and the oxygen sensor/s and tell me what they doing is it switching accordingly to open and closed loop mode.

You need a scan tool to do above.[/Quote:3c3afee02b]

checked O2 and cts according to haynes manual w/ volt meter seems ok was wrong about rpm's can't get it over 3000 and thats if you push really slow if you stab it, it stalls. OBD2 code 41 w flashing check engine light haynes calls it o2 sensor heater after reseting ECM no codes. Exhaust was full of water from blown head gasket![/Quote:3c3afee02b]

Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold retest( wear ear muffs ) sounds like clogged-up converter. Also you might want to change the HO2 sensor.[/Quote:3c3afee02b]

disconnected exhaust in front of cat. Wouldn't even start. Discoverd timing was off by a tooth on cam, re-timed it it's a little better but basically still doing the same thing you can now get it to 4000rpm's if you feather it, but now if you hold throttle still at say 2000 rpm's after about 5 seconds it starts to surge between 900rpm's and 2000 rpm's with your foot still
and there are still no codes still runs rich at idle and dies when you press throttle. The most annoying thing is the car ran great before blown head gasket

[/quote:3c3afee02b] one more thing the 2 prong distributor drive gear that goes into the cam shaft is missing one side[/quote:3c3afee02b]

Could be the culprit-now you need another distributor
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 30th, 2007 AT 3:49 AM
Tiny
DJM.INC
  • MEMBER
Got OBD2 code/s -your running rich-could be a leaky injectors or punctured fuel pressure regulator. I still got more coming.[/Quote:5af72897f8]

no codes black smoke is only at idle leans out when reved?[/Quote:5af72897f8]

Run a high tech fuel injector/s cleaner to it and see what happens

Okay check the coolant temperature sensor and the oxygen sensor/s and tell me what they doing is it switching accordingly to open and closed loop mode.

You need a scan tool to do above.[/Quote:5af72897f8]

checked O2 and cts according to haynes manual w/ volt meter seems ok was wrong about rpm's can't get it over 3000 and thats if you push really slow if you stab it, it stalls. OBD2 code 41 w flashing check engine light haynes calls it o2 sensor heater after reseting ECM no codes. Exhaust was full of water from blown head gasket![/Quote:5af72897f8]

Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold retest( wear ear muffs ) sounds like clogged-up converter. Also you might want to change the HO2 sensor.[/Quote:5af72897f8]

disconnected exhaust in front of cat. Wouldn't even start. Discoverd timing was off by a tooth on cam, re-timed it it's a little better but basically still doing the same thing you can now get it to 4000rpm's if you feather it, but now if you hold throttle still at say 2000 rpm's after about 5 seconds it starts to surge between 900rpm's and 2000 rpm's with your foot still
and there are still no codes still runs rich at idle and dies when you press throttle. The most annoying thing is the car ran great before blown head gasket

[/quote:5af72897f8] one more thing the 2 prong distributor drive gear that goes into the cam shaft is missing one side[/quote:5af72897f8]

Could be the culprit-now you need another distributor[/quote:5af72897f8]

could I just replace the gear/cog?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 30th, 2007 AT 10:17 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
If you could do it-go for it
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 30th, 2007 AT 3:54 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides