Head lamp, low and high beam, not working?

Hello, both head lamps (high and low beam) are fed power from the TIPM (totally integrated power module), will post the wiring diagrams for both, but the input for the headlamps is done by the switch being on a LIN bus network (one of the vehicles data networks) so when testing, it would be necessary to check the inputs and see what the control module is seeing via a scan tool and live data. That would be one of the steps would be when checking to see if the module is receiving the correct input, and depending on that, it would give further direction when diagnosing these types of issues. The LIN bus is a pretty simple network, it's one wire communications, so anything effecting that wire can take down the Bus, effecting also any modules on it. Most LIN buses have only a couple modules on them.
Each Head lamp assembly is on a different Ground location, you could try checking for power using a test light at the headlamp connectors, but I don't think you're going to see any power there if both are not working. But I will post the wiring diagrams so you have that service info and can see how the circuits work.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

The first diagram is the aftermarket diagram, and 2-6 are the OEM wiring diagrams, but the 1st one simplifies the circuit, you can see the voltage comes directly from the TIPM, it is a known failure point, but testing and verifying the inputs is necessary to make sure its receiving a command to turn the headlamps on.

What did you use to check for power at the head lamp connector? The power and ground can't be okay if it's not working. Are the pins loose inside the harness connector at the headlamp? Depending on the testing method, it may not be accurate.

If the right headlamp is not working, and a meter is showing 12volts, then either the bulb/socket is bad, the ground is bad, or the power wire can't carry enough current. A regular test light is not enough of an electrical load, they pull only 250ma max, you're missing something in your testing. Each side uses a different Ground location, the Fog lamps use the same ground as the left headlamp, but the right head lamp uses a different ground. Are you sure the pins are not spread apart inside the connector also, not making contact with the bulb's pins.
The black/pink wire is the ground for the right side headlamp circuit, try hooking your test light to battery negative and with the bulb plugged in, back probe the ground wire and see if you get any reaction from the headlamp bulb, or run another wire for the ground to battery negative verify it's not a bad ground. Just make sure you're only attached to the black/pink wire, so you don't short out the circuit.
Theres only a couple things it can be if your test light is lighting up, check with a meter as well to make sure it's a full 12-volts. Headlamps pull a lot of current, if the wire cannot handle the current flow, a regular test light can be misleading, this is why we load test circuits.

Okay, let us know what you find and if you need more help with testing.

Have you checked to see if the TIPM has any codes stored in it? There may be a "B" code stored for Exterior lighting, the TIPM should be able to store Left or Right Low beam Control circuit Low codes. But you will need to use a scan tool that can scan all the modules in the vehicle. The TIPM has the ability to shut down circuits that are shorted to ground.
With a meter set to Ohms, with key off, see if the power wire you are testing has continuity to ground, use battery negative for ground. If there is a circuit shut down due to a short to ground a code will be set.
Have you monitored the voltage level with the head lamp plugged in? That's still a loaded test, you will need to back probe the headlamp connector power wire to check if voltage is being lost when its plugged in.