Then the oil is probably coming in from either a bad valve guide seal or a stuck piston oil control ring, the bottom rings, not the compression rings. Sometimes, those oil control rings can get stuck from carbon buildup and not expand anymore to scrap the oil off of the cylinder wall and thus the extra oil getting into the combustion chamber.
You can try to unstick and free up that carbon by trying some Gunk Motor Flush added into the motor oil when cold, then start and idle the engine for five to ten minutes, allow the cleaner to work its magic of cleaning out the carbon in and around those oil control rings and bring life back into the oil control. Then drain the oil, empty the filter and add some new motor oil and check the spark plug after some time to see if it worked. And remember to keep up on the scheduled oil changes and do not run without a thermostat for too long cause this causes the engine to take too long to warm up, the piston and rings not to expand and properly seal, thus gas blowby into the oil pan diluting the oil, thus causing problems with carbon and gunk buildup because of the lack of motor oil protection.
Now, back to the oil cooler in the radiator, you can check that while still in the vehicle. Disconnect the transmission lines and use air pressure in one cooler port and cover the other one up and see if both it holds pressure and no air bubbles coming up in radiator coolant. I just would not go too high on the air pressure, maybe 15 psi or so.
But if you do have that same funky fluid in the transmission and on its dipstick, that is the only place it can mix is inside that radiator and a busted oil cooler.
Thursday, February 8th, 2018 AT 5:35 AM
