A.C TROUBLE 1997 TAURUS GL

  • Tiny
  • justdon
  • 1997 Ford Taurus

I purchased a 1997 Ford Taurus GL 3.0, 105,000 miles, automatic with a locked up ac compressor and broken belt. I replaced the compressor, dryer, and lines (filter included). I flushed the condenser and evaporator and vacuum tested them for leaks. After completing the assembly, I vacuumed the system for about an hour and began refilling. The manual ac control was on max with the blower on high.

After about a pound of refrig, the system stopped accepting the re-fill and the pressure on the low side climbed WAY up. The compressor never kicked on.

I attempter to jump the cycling switch and received no clutch response. A voltage test of the cycling switch connector read less than 1 volt. Applying a direct 12 volts to the clutch coil switch does make the clutch pull in.

I am at a loss of where to check next. One suggestion was to replace the ccrm. But at $134, I would rather know how to check it first.

HELP!

Small donation to follow on pay day. :Wink:

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Wednesday, May 23rd, 2007 AT 7:09 PM

14 Replies

  • Tiny
  • justdon
  • Member

Thanks for the reply justanold.

Pulled and checked fuse 6. It was blown. I now have power to the cycling and pressure switches, but not the clutch coil connector. Jumping the cycling switch still doesn't kick the compressor.

To review. I have power to the cycling switch when the interior control is set to a.C and not when the interior switch is in the off position. I hope this confirms that the problem isn't in the interior control switch.

There is full power to the pressure switch unless I disconnect the cycling switch, then the power stops to the pressure switch as well.

Still no a.C. :Cry:

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Thursday, May 24th, 2007 AT 8:20 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rudpro
  • Member

Just wondering if the compressor is not turning on because of a low pressure switch. Some cars have it on the high side, like on the receiver/ dryer. I've charged some cars where after putting a pound or so in, the compressor still didn't kick on and I had to jumper 12v directly to the clutch to finish filling. You said the pressure shot way up on the low side, what's the pressure on the high side. With the car off, the high side and low side should have equal pressure. Again, I'm not sure where the low pressure switch is on your car, just something else to consider.

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Friday, May 25th, 2007 AT 12:23 PM
  • Tiny
  • justdon
  • Member

Justanold.

Switches connected, car running, ac on.

Raps on ccrm did nothing
There is power to the dark green/white
No power to the black/yellow

Applied power to the black/yellow and the compressor clutch engaged.

Rudpro.

I wish I had a set of manifold gauges, but I don't at this point. :Oops:

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Friday, May 25th, 2007 AT 6:05 PM
  • Tiny
  • justdon
  • Member

I was afraid you were going to say that. :Cry:

Thanks a bunch for all the assistance. :D :D

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Friday, May 25th, 2007 AT 9:19 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rudpro
  • Member

There is another fix for the CCRM if you're interested. Let me know.

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Saturday, May 26th, 2007 AT 5:58 PM
  • Tiny
  • justdon
  • Member

Rudpro.

I'm interested in anything that keeps me from shelling out a C note. :Lol:

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Sunday, May 27th, 2007 AT 5:22 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rudpro
  • Member

If you know how to solder connections, or if you know someone who can do it for you, you can open up the CCRM and change the relay with a like for like relay from Radio Shack, $4.50. You have to remove the CCRM. Drill out the rivets. Desolder and remove the relay, the one with the same colored wires you described. Solder the new relay in. Rivet the CCRM case back together and reinstall it. It's not that difficult as long as you know how to make a good soldered connection. To desolder the relay, you can by a desoldering tool fom Radio Shack. You push the plunger in, hold it to the connection while applying the soldering iron, push the button when solder melts and it sucks in he solder. You can try removing the relay without the desoldering tool but the tool makes it much easier. I think all the relays are the same in the CCRM but it would be best to bring it with you when you go to Radio Shack. The part # is 275-005. Most cars have a relay center that is not sealed up and the relays are plug in kind but I guess Ford wants to make it difficult to change one or wants to sell the whole CCRM to you. If you don't know how to solder, let me know and I'll walk you through it. It's easy, but you have to make sure it's done right. Let me know how it goes or if you need assistance.

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Sunday, May 27th, 2007 AT 10:20 PM
  • Tiny
  • justdon
  • Member

Rudpro.
I have the ccrm open and have already purchased the radio shack relay you gave.

Problem is, I have no idea which damn relay is for the a.C. Lol

There is a Bosch component that looks like it would be for power, 2 larger grey Omron relays side by side, a black Omron relay #G8H-UA-007108, and a smaller black Omron component # G8SN-UA-007116. Any idea on which one may be for the A.C?

Thanks,
Don

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Monday, June 4th, 2007 AT 3:48 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rudpro
  • Member

Let me look into this. I'll get right back to you.

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Monday, June 4th, 2007 AT 5:13 PM
  • Tiny
  • TaurusWheel
  • Member

I did the same thing for my 87 Taurus, back when the ccrm was known as the integrated relay controller, that was a sealed box also, drilled out the rivets and replaced the fan controller relay, it would occasionally stick on, I would rap the box, it would shut off. Be gentle with the solder and heat

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Monday, June 4th, 2007 AT 5:35 PM

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