2000 Ford Expedition Did I lose the rear end

Tiny
DVPRO
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD EXPEDITION
Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
2000 Ford Expedition V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 170k miles

Wife was driving normally than Parked. Attempted to reverse and she couldn't. She was able to (still is) drive forward with a large amount of resistance. Reverse is shot. It feels like the E-brake is locked (but it's not). She managed to drive home (crying on the phone to me) and with it in park, it doesn't move. In neautral is moves forward (with a lot of force) and not backwards. I am thinking it's the rear end. Oil change place told her she had a bad seal and was leaking diff fluid. He "added" more, that was about 3 months ago. I noted minimal crud buildup on the RR inner rim. Minimal at best. It should also be noted that fluid leaks at the tranny yoke (and has for a few years) ATF is constantly checked, and is just barley on the low side at the moment (still in the Xross section of the DS).

No towing, average city driving. What tests can I do to determine what I am dealing with? I am very mechanically inclined, worked as a mechanic about 15 yrs ago. Have about half those tools.

If I do need to rebuild the pumpkin / bearings / seals, do I just pay to have a shop do it or is this doable for a driveway repair.

***EDIT***

Typical for the month I've had.
After typing this, I went out to the truck to MAKE SURE the P brake was not set and that it is functioning correctly. Mind you the car is facing forwards in our driveway with no reverse. So with the engine off I put it in neutral and it moved normally (driveway is flat). Started it up, let it run for a few and put it in reverse, it starte backing up just fine. Back to drive and it's working. There was never / or is any whine from the rear end. Took it around the block and I noted that in drive it does feel like there is some kind of drag going on. Reverse worked just fine for the few minutes I was testing this. With the engine warmed up as well as the tranny, I checked the fluid again, it was at the bottom of the Xross hatches. I let it idle for another 5-10 minutes and the fluid was between zero and the bottom of the Xross hatches. After I saw that, I shut it down. Added about 1/3 qt. Of Motor Craft ATF and we'll see. I think I may be the dumbest former mechanic out there. At least I hope so. Just wanted to update this thread incase a real mechanic was about to spend a bunch of time on what I previously stated.

So what causes this additional "drag" and losing reverse? I can't recall if the tranny has ever been flushed. Sigh.
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Saturday, January 30th, 2010 AT 9:09 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I hope when you receive this, everything is still working correctly. As far as the low fluid, that could have been the problem with reverse. Have you checked the rear differential fluid? Make sure it is full and if there is no noise from it, chances are it is fine.

Now for the drag, check the park brake. Chances are you have rear disc brakes. My opinion is this is the worst set up I have ever seen. Make sure there is no corrosion on the cables and where the shoes fit into the rear of the rotor.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Sunday, January 31st, 2010 AT 12:27 AM
Tiny
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Well, bad news. After adding more fluid and a few short test drives everything appeard to be working. Sorta. Shifting seemed a little different but still functioned on time and smooth. I decided to take it to a top notch tranny shop here in town to get a full flush. The tech connected his snap on computer and we went for a test drive. THe electronics checked out good. Next step was to flush it. On the lift the pan came off and the owner of the shop (head tech) just said. Nope, I won't take his money and for the guy working on it to just put it back together. He showed me what he called "mud" and all this residue lining the inners of the pan. He wouldn't flush it because he felt there would be a good chance he couldn't get the car off his lift. There was a lot of crud in the pan. Told me I could piece part repair the tranny just to get it running for about 1900 or a full rebuild for 2300-2500 with a 350K warranty. As is the car is worth about 400 to a dealer (166K miles) With a new tranny and some other smaller repairs I had planned on doing I might get 3500-4000 selling it on my own.

So now I am wondering if I can find a rebuilt tranny online somewhere and have it installed. But I doubt I would trust anyone to give me a correctly built one. Any tips from this point?
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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 2:23 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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That isn't good news. He is correct. IF it is that bad, the trans flush will most likely clean out what is left of the clutch plates and then it will slip bad if it goes at all.

As far as the trans, my recommendation is to call around salvage yards. There were a lot of Expeditions turned in for the "Cash for Clunkers". THe engines are junk but the trans were not touched. I have a friend that owns a salvage yard and it is full of ford trucks and expeditions. They are all still together with the trans. I was looking at them yesterday. It's funny. The keys are in them, you turn it, and the car is ready to go except the engine is blown up. Everything comes on and works fine, radio, fan, dash lights. Everyone of them were nicer than the car I drive. It just doesn't seem right.

I'm not allowed to recommend any specific location for parts. However, if you can't find one in a salvage yard, I will check there for you. I have no idea where you are or the shipping, but I'll try to get the best price I can. Please try to find one near you. I'm confident you'll find one.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
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Thanks Joe,

I am in Southern California. Most of the junk yards are down in Los Angeles. So the idea would be to pull the tranny out of one of those and reinstall it in mine? Is that a fairly straight forward job? I would think a lift would be needed to do that, or do they pull them for you? All my experience at junk yards was a do it yourself thing. Thanks
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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 3:38 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I'm on the other end of the country, in PA. I'm sure I could find one around here for around 3 to 5 hundred.

Regarding your question, there are "U-Pull it" yards. However, there are many that will remove it for you (for a fee). As far as replacing them, it is a straight forward job, but it is a big one. You can do it on the ground with this vehicle because of its height. You will need a jack to hold and lower the trans once you unbolt it from the engine.

IF you would like to try, I can do my best from here to help you through it. It may take a couple days to get through it, but if you have any mechanical ability, some basic tools, a jack and don't mind getting a few bloody knuckles, it can be done in your driveway or garage. The hardest part is getting the upper trans bolts off.

You let me know. Again, it's a big job, but if you want to try, I'll be glad to help.

Let me know, and thanks for using 2carpros. Com

Joe
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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 6:33 PM

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