Do not run straight water. It's true it holds more BTUs of heat which can add to its efficiency in moving heat to the radiator, but antifreeze does that just fine too. More importantly, antifreeze has critical additives including water pump lubricant, and corrosion inhibitors. Coolant is going to become acidic over time. The corrosion inhibitors wear out in about two years. Coolant must replaced at scheduled intervals to replenish those additives. Ask any GM owner about corroded and leaking heater cores and radiators. Those use the red Dex-Cool, (Dex-Mud) antifreeze. To make their cost of regular maintenance falsely appear lower than that of their competitors, GM listed it as "lifetime" coolant, then, once you bought the vehicle, on the reservoirs, they said to replace it every three years. Even the Dex-Cool company doesn't recommend that. Many owners only remember that "lifetime" claim and end up with repeated leaking parts.
By the early 2000s, most manufacturers were using antifreeze formulations designed specifically to meet the needs of their engines. Some replacement antifreeze can be used in multiple applications, but it may not be suitable for every engine. If you're just adding a little, such as after replacing a thermostat, always add the same formulation that is in there now. The detergents in some brands may not be compatible with the seal conditioners in other bands. Mixing two types might lead to a leaking water pump seal. If you're doing a flush and refill, you can use any brand that says it is compatible with the needs of your engine. Those "needs" mainly refer to the different types of metals that must be protected, and the composition of the rubber hoses. Some additives will accelerate the deterioration of some rubber hoses.
The skipping CD can have multiple causes. Obviously try a different CD first. That will show if scratches are the cause. Next, you can try running a cleaning CD, but only use one that includes a small bottle of cleaner. One drop is placed onto one of the brushes. If you have the CD / cassette combo radio, the laser lens can be cleaned with a cotton swab after removing the top cover. If you have the six-disc in-dash changer, don't waste your time trying to get it apart. Those are a disaster.
If the skipping occurs mainly in cold weather, the best suspect is the grease on the laser sled's guide rails has become hardened. The mechanism needs to be removed and disassembled to clean that grease off, then the rails are re-lubricated with new grease. The clue to this is the skipping will stop for a while right after bouncing over a pot hole. That jars the sled and lets it move ahead and catch up to the laser that is straining to move far enough to see the tracks. When the sled pops free, it usually bounces ahead up to 30 seconds on the track. The grease problem also tends to cause more trouble when the laser sled is at either end of its travel, meaning the beginning or end of the CD. If it sticks near the center of the disc, it won't get far enough to read the table of contents, and it won't start to play without reading that information.
Friday, December 30th, 2016 AT 5:07 PM