1995 Ford Escort Engine seriously lacks power

DIEHARD_101

MEMBER
1995 FORD ESCORT
4 CYL
FWD
MANUAL
298,000 MILES

I have a 95 ford escort 1.9L. My problem started about a year ago when the car had problems getting up to speed. Now it's so bad that I can't even take off up hill. I have to ride the clutch and work the gas pedal just right to even get rolling. The clutch has been replaced along with the timing belt, tps, vr sensor, cam shaft sensor, plugs and wires, fuel pump and filter. I had a couple of chain saws that acted the same way due to a clogged screen in the exhaust. They idled fine but when power was applied the engine would lug down. That is same thing the escort is doing. Could it be a clogged catalytic converter? According to the cars computer nothing is wrong. I was thinking, EGR or fuel injectors flooding the engine. The head on the engine was put on a couple of years ago after a valve seat came lose. Which seems to be a common problem on 90-99s. Been racking my brain all winter about it so I thought I'd try to rack someone elses. Thanks

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Wednesday, May 12th, 2010 AT 7:31 AM

13 Replies

2CARPRO JACK

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11,533 POSTS

Could very well be a partially plugged cat converter, especially since it has gotten progressivly worse. Try loosening the exhaust before the cat and drive it. It will be loud, but if the exhaust can get out and the cat is the problem it will have its power back.I take it the cam timing has been verified to be correct?

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Thursday, May 13th, 2010 AT 8:07 AM

DIEHARD_101

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I wasn't sure how to check the timing. So I took the timing belt off and realigned everything. There was no change in the preformance. I am checking the exhaust this weekend. Because of work that is the only time I will be able to.

Thanks for the reply. I'll post what happens.

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Thursday, May 13th, 2010 AT 8:27 PM

2CARPRO JACK

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Let me know.

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Friday, May 14th, 2010 AT 7:48 AM

DIEHARD_101

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Well, I disconnected the cat from the manifold. No change in preformance what so ever. If I ease the accelerator down the RPMs will raise. If I press the accelerator quickly the engine will lug down to the point of almost dying, hesitate and then rev. Under load the car will accelerate if I press the gas down to one point I'm guessing somewhere between 25% and 50% the car will accelerate. However at that amount of pedal you can forget trying to take off up hill or pulling out into traffic. What's your thought on the EGR or the VRG (I think it's called. That's what the vaccum lines run to and from on the EGR) I'm looking for anything that can cause and engine to behave as I described. I know there is probably a huge list I'm just fishing for options. Also the O2 sensor and the throttle position sensor I put on were used. Both the old and the replacements give the same result on preformance.

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Saturday, May 15th, 2010 AT 6:02 PM

2CARPRO JACK

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May need to put it on a scanner to watch what the TPS is doing as well as the spark advance. With comp controlled cars, sometimes you have to watch the sensor working to see whos not behaving. Have you verified fuel pressure even though the pump is new?

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Saturday, May 15th, 2010 AT 9:36 PM

DIEHARD_101

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Ok here we go.

No cloggs in the exhaust system at all. I bought a brand new TPS and Oxygen sensor. The old O2 sensor was bad. How ever that didn't even touch the problem. So I bought a vacuum gauge. At idle it reads 10 to 11 in-HG. It is not steady and fluctuates between the two rapidly. Sometimes, like when the fan cuts on it will drop to 3 to 5 in-HG as the engine lugs down (the idle air control valve is brand new). According to the book. At sea level it should read 17-22 in-HG. And should be steady, not bouncy. I'm currently about 1000' MSL.(Mean sea level). So it should read MAYBE 1 in-HG less than the book says.
I did replace the fuel injector that had a crack in the plastic lining the tip. No change. Thanks for all of your input so far, but with that in mind whats your thoughts on the engine now. :)

Also I have not verified fuel pressure as of yet. The gauge I bought does test fuel pressure it's just a matter of doing it. Lol. Let me know what you think and I'll test the fuel psr soon. Thank you.

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Sunday, May 23rd, 2010 AT 3:55 PM

DIEHARD_101

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I also just checked the air charge temperature sensor. Everything I found online says to set my ohm meter to 20K range and it should get a reading. I have to set mine on 200K and the reading goes from about 27K at room temp(i'm guessing 70 degrees) to around 8K when a hair dryer set on low/warm is pointed at it. I looked in the manual and I cannot find anything on what ohms you should get from the ACT. Any ideas?

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Sunday, May 23rd, 2010 AT 9:27 PM

DIEHARD_101

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I'm pretty sure I've solved the problem. Can't find out for sure until tomorrow. MY harmonic balancer, the shear key was demolished. I noticed sometime ago that it was vibrating while the engine was running. Didn't think to much about it because the vr sensor was still lining up with the teeth on it. Well I just pulled it off and the first thing I noticed was a large build up of rust behind the bolt. Then I took it off and well yeah. Lets just say I'm lucky it was even spinning with the engine. Anyway I'll get a new one tomorrow, hopefuly get to put it on and I'll let you guys know.

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Sunday, May 23rd, 2010 AT 10:44 PM

2CARPRO JACK

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That should do it. With vacuum readings that low, I was going to suggest a peek at the timing marks to be sure it wasnt off a tooth on timing.

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Monday, May 24th, 2010 AT 8:08 AM

DIEHARD_101

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That has to be what is wrong. The woodruff key had twisted making the timing off. The crankshaft is ruined tho along with the balancer it's self. The key hollowed out a huge section of the crankshaft and widened the space on the balancer. So all of that will have to be reaplaced. Luckily it's not to exspensive and I can do it my self. So I found my weekend project. After I get everything back together I'll post how the car is preforming. Thanks for all your help.