1986 Ford Bronco Not sure

Tiny
POPEYE46
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 FORD BRONCO
Other Category problem
1986 Ford Bronco V6 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 160000 miles

I have a 1986 Ford Bronco II with the 2.9 V6 and an automatic trans. I got it really cheap and it had very little rust for its age especially here in ohio.I replaced the brake booster the drivers window and put in a radio. I also did a general tune-up to it, plugs wires and cap and rotor, also changed the oil and filter. I drove it to work, about 15 miles on way and after about a week it started leaking trans fluid, a few days later it was running out the front of the trans. Took it to a shop and they replace the front bushing and the seal and put in a new converter. Started driving to work again and I noticed that after warming up, about 3 miles of driving it would start acting up. It would stumble and sputter and begin to lose power, if I would give it gas it would downshift and run ok again until it reached cruising speed and it would do it all over again. Then I noticed that when I came to a stop sign and sat there for 10 seconds or so that when I took off the problem would disappear. This became routine, it would start acting up and I would pull over and stop and then continue and it would be ok. Then one day I stopped for coffee and turned it off, when I started it up and started to drive the problem had returned, stopped and sat and then it would go away when I started driving again. Have been to several sites and there is a variety of answers to consider. The main one was a vacuum leak this is a list of the things that I have done since and the results.1. Checked all of the vacuum hoses and replaced 2 of them also the one going to the vacuum modulator on the trans had a slight amount of fluid in it so I replaced the modulator too. 2. I put in a new thermostat (seemed to take forever for gauge to warm up on a cold morning). Test drove it and it would do the same thing. 3. Replaced the following; ignition module, temprature sensor, throttle position sensor, ground wire from battery. Also replaced the gas tank due to a leak from rust also sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle to clean it up. Also adjusted a noisy lifter. Test drove it again and at the 3 mile mark it would do the same thing except now it would die when the problem started. Stopping now has no effect on it and the problem is now all the time. The car will start up even while I am coasting if I put it in nuetral. As soon as I put it in drive it does the same old thing. It runs fine if I just let it sit in the driveway but as soon as I drive it and put it under a load it does it again. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is now nickel and diming me to death.I don't really like the car and don't want to get rid of it. Would like to put in a 4.0 in the distant future and give it to one of my grandsons. Thanx again and have a nice day. Mike
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Saturday, December 1st, 2007 AT 2:16 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Mike is the check engine light on? Or ever flash when you are having trouble? If so you might want to read them. If you locate the test connector, it has two connectors, a 1 pin and a multi pin connect the upper right pin to the single pin with a jumper and count the flashes on the dash ligh with the key on. But it does sound like a MAP sensor problem.
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Saturday, December 1st, 2007 AT 2:24 PM
Tiny
POPEYE46
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Thanx for your quick reply. I am not sure if there is a "check engine" light but the emiss light did come on for awhile and then went off and has not been back on again. I have a repair manual but it does not mention anything about the trouble codes or where to place the jumper to find them.I have checked for a code reader and I cannot find one for the 2.9. They do have one that will read the 2.8 but not the 2.9. Don't understand that one.I have noticed a connector under the hood that has a cover inserted in it but have no clue what it is. Again the manual does not tell me what it is. The manual also does not cover the emission sensors very well, gives name and location but nothing else. Will try the map as you suggest and look for the connector to jump for the trouble codes. What code am I looking for? Thanx again for your quick reply and I will let you know what I find. Mike
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Sunday, December 2nd, 2007 AT 5:40 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Look for these two connectors, they are on the drivers side inner fender I think...Hook up to an analog voltmeter this way...


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Code_Reading_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Code_Reading1_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Code_Reading2_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Code_Reading3_1.jpg


A code 22 is what I think youll get, thats the MAP...
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Sunday, December 2nd, 2007 AT 7:04 AM
Tiny
POPEYE46
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Found the two connectors. Located down by the heater motor on the passenger side. Jumped the single to the top right and turned on the key. Emiss light came on when I turned the key on and then went out and did not come back on at all.I know on my celebrity it will blink a 12 just to let you know that it is connected and then blink the trouble codes. Does this do anything similar? Found the MAP sensor by following the vacuum diagram under the hood. Is there anyway to test this sensor or do you just replace it and could it be bad and still not give a code or could there be a problem with the ECU preventing it from giving codes and causing the problems that I am having. Thanx again for your quick and helpful responses. Have a nice day. Mike
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Sunday, December 2nd, 2007 AT 12:38 PM
Tiny
POPEYE46
  • MEMBER
Need to apologize, reread your last answer and I tried with a digital meter. Duh, at 61 I am subject to brain farts. Will get a analog meter and try again. Small print was not working on the old eyeballs. Really want to figure this one out. Becoming an obsession and at my age that is not good. LOL thanx again for your speedy and informative replies. Again have a nice day. Mike
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Sunday, December 2nd, 2007 AT 1:05 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Mike you can try unplugging the vac line and use a vac pump, see if it leaks or holds!
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Sunday, December 2nd, 2007 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
POPEYE46
  • MEMBER
Good morning again, I took the vacuum line off of the MAP sensor and checked it with a pump. It held vacuum. Also got a analog VOM and tried jumping the test leads according to the diagram that you provided. Thanx for that>>>> I am not sure if I am reading the meter right. When I turn on the key it goes all the way to the left side.I can hear a click and it will drop a little and then return to the left side. Now it will drop to zero and pulse 2 times up and down. The third time it stays all the was to the left again for a second or two then it will return to zero and pulse up and down again this time 4 times and then on the fifth one it will stay all the way to the left again for a couple of seconds. If I write all the times that it pulses I get a 2 - 3 - 1 - 4 not in that order in between the times that it stays all the way to the left. I am not sure if it stays to the left in between numbers or not.I am not sure about the explanation in the diagram that you sent.I feel like I am getting to be a pain but this is really driving me nuts. Thanx again for all the help and have a nice day.I know that it pulses I am just not sure why it stays all the way to the left side of the meter. It will do this two or three times in a row. Stay there drop to zero then go all the way to the left side and stay there again. No pulses in between. Mike
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Monday, December 3rd, 2007 AT 3:23 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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If we cant get the meter to operate, the readers for this year are dirt cheap, like 20.00 bucks, It seems there are codes, if we want em we need to go get em. Or take a shot in the dark with the MAP.
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Monday, December 3rd, 2007 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
POPEYE46
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Could you tell me where I can get a list of the trouble codes so that when I do figure this thing out I will know what I am looking for. And thanx again for all the help. And if I can't figure out the codes I will just try replacing the MAP sensor. Haven't got to many more things to replace. LOL thanx again and have a nice day. Mike
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Monday, December 3rd, 2007 AT 5:01 PM
Tiny
POPEYE46
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Forgot to ask if you know where I can get a reader for this thing. Brand name or model number. Looked on eBay but not able to find one that will read the 2.9. Didn't understand that. Will read the 2.8 and the 3.0 but not the 2.9. Oh well any ideas will help a lot. Thanx again for your patience and have a nice day. Mike
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Monday, December 3rd, 2007 AT 5:05 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Look on the label under the hood for the EEC type, then go to autozone or any large chain, and get one compatible with it. If you do get a reader, it will come with instructions and all the codes.
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Monday, December 3rd, 2007 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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From: popeye46
To: merlin2021
Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 2:56 pm
Subject: all the help
I would like to thank you for all your kind and patient help......I finally figured out the VOM and it is giving me the codes 22 and 43 I now know what 22 is do you happen to know what 43 is.......again thanx and have a nice day........Mike

MAP=22


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Codes22_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Codes43_1.jpg


Replace the MAP
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Tuesday, December 4th, 2007 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
POPEYE46
  • MEMBER
Replaced the MAP and guess what did the same thing 3 miles it starts to warm up and kicks and sputters and dies. Put it in neutral and it starts right up. Put it in gear and in a block or two it does it again. Gave it a lot of pedal and made it back home. Oh well back to the drawing board. Thanx again for all you help and advise. Have a nice day. Mike
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Wednesday, December 5th, 2007 AT 1:49 PM

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