Engine will not start to point Spark Plugs wet with fuel?

Hello,

So, the vacuum advance on the distributer has a few different colored springs to control the advance. Did yours come with extra springs? Also. What was the model of distributor you put in? I would like to see if I can find the instructions for it. Vacuum advance should affect it until you are actually moving but it's best to check anyway.

Also have you tried turning the distributor a few degrees and see if that helps?

I would also try and adjust the fuel/ air or idle mixture screw on the carburetor. I usually turn it all the way in and start with 2 1/2 turns back out.

Another thing to think about is fuel pressure. I believe it should be around 16 PSI.

Also does this carb have an automatic choke? This needs to be unhooked while adjusting the carburetor in my opinion. Personally, I think the automatic choke are not very good.

I would pull all the plugs and let them dry out as well as letting the cylinders dry out. If it has been dumping fuel, you might want to put some fresh oil in it.

I am sending images of the instructions for the carburetor. Hopefully it will help. I would start over personally to make sure everything is where it needs to be.

I would check all vacuum lines and make sure you have caps on any unused port. I know this is obvious, but I just want to give you the best information possible.

Again, if you send me the make and model of the distributor, I can get you some instructions for that as well.

The instructions are kind of broken up and I apologize. I have to upload snippets because PDF versions aren't aloud.

Let me know how you make out and message me back. I will be here. Hope this information helps.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello, ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

Glad to hear it is a manual choke. I do not like those automatic chokes. Junk.

We used to rip out those accel distributors and throw them in the trash and use MSD. But MSD isn't perfect either, but you are getting spark so let's put that on the back burner for now.

Just seems like it's dumping too much fuel, or it's not timed right. It's one thing to have soaked plugs but hydro locking because of it is quite excessive.

Is it trying to start at all? What about any backfiring?

Also, the directions from Edelbrock aren't very informative either.

Can you adjust the choke to try and see if you can get less air coming through ultimately reducing the fuel it's giving to the engine?

Also how is the accelerator cable? Is it in good shape? Does it stick at all?

I'm thinking we need to reduce the fuel as much as we can to keep it from flooding so we can see if it wants to start. Then we can check the timing depending on how it reacts.

Also, I know you said you had spark with the tester. Maybe it wouldn't hurt to put a good set of plugs in. I would remove one put it against the block and have an assistant try to turn it over and see what the spark looks like on the plug itself. Maybe even clean it lightly with some emery cloth and set the gap.

Is the distributor new? Did you just get it, and did it run before the distributor was changed?

Just trying to rule things out.

I tried calling Edelbrock, but they are closed because it's Sunday. So, I will call them in the morning and see if they can give us any insight into what may be going on.

I would work on those few things, and I will continue to work from my end, and we will see what we come up with.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

Personally, I would try rebuilding the carburetor. If it doesn't work, then you are right back where you started. I will say those are pretty reliable carbs. I would think a 600cfm would be a good size for a 350 but a 500cfm 4 barrel would be good too but you don't want to be under powered either.

I found this formula I thought might be helpful:

"To arrive at the most appropriate carburetor choice, there's a basic formula: engine displacement multiplied by maximum rpm divided by 3,456. For example: a typical 355ci small-block†a 0.030-over rebuild†with a 6,000-rpm max engine speed would work well with a 616-cfm carb (355 x 6,000) 3,456 = 616.32)."

Sounds like you are right where you need to be.

I would try with what you got, get a rebuild kit and go right through it. As far as the distributor I would run it for now and upgrade down the road and get a really nice one. The new "corn fuel" I call it gums these things up pretty easily.

I always like the MSD Billet Series myself. Easy to hook up and maintain. Plus, they look pretty clean.

Keep in touch. Let me know how it goes and thank you for having an interesting question. Hope everything works out.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

I'm not sure let me see what I can find out real quick.

Hello ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

My tech info doesn't give me info on that, and I don't want to pull something offline and give you the wrong information. I would take the fuel line off at the carburetor and put a T-fitting on and thread on a gauge and reconnect it and see what you're at. Does it have an old school manual fuel pump on the passenger side of the motor?

If so, you will have to crank it but if there is an electric one you can just prime it and see where it is at.

Better to have the exact measurement anyways but I will look further into it and see what I can find for you. If you come up with it in the meantime let me know.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

Okay. Let me know what you find out and just reply back to this message.

Hope you have a good rest of your day.

Thank you,
Brendon

Good morning, ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

That's awesome glad to hear it!

Thank you very much for the update as it will help someone in the future.

If I can assist any further, please let me know or you can also start a new question.

Thank you,
Brendon