Engine will not turn over or start

Tiny
TMDORSEY
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,000 MILES
This is third time for no start no crank issue. New battery, new starter, replaced battery terminals, new alternator. No warning lights, dash lights, headlights, etc. Door open light is operable as well as interior dome light. Vehicle seemed to have sporadic accessory fluctuations, such as headlight switch turning on dash warning lights, key in ignition switch signal continuous sound instead of intermittently dinging. At a loss, need vehicle desperately.
Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 7:53 AM

6 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This sounds like a possible ignition switch issue. Let's start from the beginning and test for voltage at the starter on both wires when you are cranking the engine. The wire from the battery should have voltage all the time. The other wire should only have 12 volts when you are cranking the engine.

I suspect you don't have voltage on the control wire which means we need to go back to the park neutral switch. If you don't have voltage coming out of this then we need to check for voltage going into it from the ignition switch. If you don't then the switch is the issue.

Basically you want to go back through the system to find where you have voltage and where you don't.

Let me know if you have questions. Thanks
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
TMDORSEY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Also has new ignition switch, main serpentine belt, thermostat and radiator. All fuses and relays have been tested. Engine code for control idle air valve present. Only half of fuse box under hood has power.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 5:59 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. Then I would go to the park neutral switch and see what voltage you have coming out of it. Basically we need to trace the voltage through the system to see where we have and where we do not.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
JERMSFOWLER
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Have the same issue. I have replaced the ignition switch multiple times because every time I go install the switch and try and crank over again on my power back to the car but as soon as I crank it over it dies out. No fuse is blown. Before I had the issue with the ignition fuse blowing and it was the previous owner who installed the stereo to the ignition wire and was causing a short. Took the stereo out replace the fuse car worked again for a couple days and then shuts down when I try to crank it. Could the park neutral switch give too much voltage to the ignition switch causing it to go bad every time?
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Thanks for jumping in JERMSFOWLER. To answer your question that sounds like a slightly different issue that is causing the same result. There could be a blown fuse causing TMDORSEY's issue but that is why we need to trace the system to see where we have voltage and where we don't.

As for the park neutral causing too much voltage, that is unlikely. What it could do is allow current to flow at the wrong time which could potentially causing something else to short out. However, if this were the case then we should be able to test for voltage and find the short.

Let me know what other questions you have and TMDORSEY, if you would let us know how you make out with checking the voltage coming out of the park neutral. Thanks
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Saturday, August 15th, 2020 AT 8:39 AM
Tiny
TMDORSEY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I will may take me some time to respond back, trying very hard to reply by tomorrow morning. All fuses have been checked with circuit tester. And if the park neutral switch was causing a short would my electronics (sunroof, done light, dash lights, horn, door locks, key in ignition chime, headlights, tail lights, radio, blower fan intermittently work and controls to one accessory control another accessory?
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Saturday, August 15th, 2020 AT 12:26 PM

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