Hi guys. I was reading through this, and nothing makes sense. First of all, no symptoms or problems were ever listed. Second, you are supposed to have twelve volts on the fuses. That is not a short. If you mean there is voltage on those fuses when there is not supposed to be, that should not be that hard to isolate.
Fuse 30 is for the horn and is fed from fuse 1 which is always hot. You are supposed to have voltage on fuse 30 all the time. Fuse 37 and 38 are fed from the ignition switch. Unplug that switch. If the voltage on those two fuses drops to 0 volts, suspect a melted switch, which is common on Fords, or, on some models, it is out of adjustment. The clue to an adjustment problem is usually the symptoms will change when turning the switch to the "accessory" position.
If the voltage is still on those fuses when the ignition switch is unplugged, it has to be coming through something on those circuits. In HMAC300's very first reply, he mentioned the GEM module which has also caused a lot of trouble for Ford. That is fed through fuse 38, and is a good suspect. Just pull out that five-amp fuse. If voltage is gone on fuse 37 when fuse 38 is removed and the ignition switch is off, replace the GEM module. If the twelve volts is still there, remove fuse 37, then see if the voltage on fuse 38 drops to 0 volts. If it does, fuse 37 feeds the transmission range sensor. I do not think there are other voltage sources for that sensor, but I did not look for that on the wiring diagram, so I do not know for sure. Unplugging that sensor would make the twelve volts go away if something in it is shorted to a voltage source.
Thursday, January 12th, 2017 AT 1:26 PM