2001 Dodge Van STEERING BOX ADJUSTMENT

Unless it has changed there is a lock nut and inner screw on the box. Loosen, tighten screw counter clockwise to loosen slightly, then tighten and recheck. Any lubrication problems in linkage could cause this. Be careful. It is inside so if no good it must be rebuilt or replaced.
Check all linkage first.

Well, if you can find a place where a van, with the same setup, has been wrecked and written off, like a salvage yard you can get one a lot cheaper. If you write Chrysler, they may give it to you for cost.
I always would call junk yards but even they know how expensive a new one is. I think that the box is so important, I would only put O.E.M. In.
My customers always bring the parts so The only thing I can tell you is call around or go to Chrysler or Dodge dealer and ask them. Don't drive it tight with improper return. Too bad it failed but it is so important. Go with a new, Chrysler reman or salvage yard that has one.
We used to put the couplers in all the time and the boxes were always part of the warranty. They did not last much more than 7 years, it depends on turning and not age or mileage. You know. Call, around. Good luck ok. If I find out, I will let you know, ok?

The switch is ok, cause the PCM has turned your lamp on, I found the speed sensor or fuse or vacuum to be the usual problem.
Common problem. Need a scanner to tell exactly what is not feeding information. If you do not have a scan tool. Start with both fuse boxes and check speed sensor and vacuum. Of course there is a clock spring and cable also neccesary for it to work in set only but the servo that keeps your speed steady goes bad also. Thats why a scan helps. Sometimes, a loose cable will turn it right off. OK no problem.

Spray it up with penetrating oil, and let it sit. Then get a big hammer and a punch, carefully wake it up, by hitting it from a few directions then spray it again. After an hour try it again. I would heat it up cherry red and that is the final thing. Not the o2 sensor but the flange it mounts in. That will expand it. But try soaking first, hitting without ruining the lands for the socket, put a regular wrench on it(not the open end) and start cracking it. Stubborn. A 22mm fits nice and tight. Ok A larger breaker bar and socket is not as effective as a comb. Wrench, and hitting its handle. Sometimes. I would slam it on the flat sides, directly with a hammer only. It's ok because you can drill and heli-coil if worse comes to worse. I've used a hammer and chisel to take lugnuts on wheels that no socket fits on. Wear safety glasses and any propane heat is better then nothing.

I know chips and primary ignition changes are available, but if your mileage is slightly high and your engine itself is not as efficient, its only going to give it more fuel or timing. It may not be the best thing. I'm sure one of the other fellows can help. The people who run this site are into helping, like no other website I've been to. You, of course know how much I appreciate your thanks. Come back anytime. OK I use a little 4cylinder, and always drove like an older person, even when I was younger, just a few years ago, of course.