1987 Dodge Raider 4 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 170000 miles
I have a 1987 Dodge Raider with the 2.6 litre Carb, engine. It will not fire. I have voltage to the coil.
But im not sure if it is wired correctly.
The distribtor has 2 wires, the black/white wire is connected to the bottom of the resistor ballast, the blue wire to the negative post on the coil.
The wires from the wiring harness are connected as follows: black/white (hot wire when key is on) AND blue wire to bottom of resistor ballast. Red/black wire to top of resistor, black jumper wire from resistor to positive poll on coil.
White/blue wire with red stripe to to positive coil.
Black wire to negative coil.
Blue wire from a diode looking thing mounted on frame to bottom of resistor ballast.
Currently I have voltage on BOTH sides of coil when key is on. More on the positve side than the negative.
The coil specs tested ok, primary and secondary resistance. I have full voltage on both sides of the pickup coil inside the dist.
The ohm resistance on the pickup coil is 1175.
Thanks in advance for advice on repairs or adjustments needed.
Try this remove all wires from NEG coil leave attached the one from DIST. Put test light on NEG coil chank does it flash?
Let me know
Thanks for donate
December, 16, 2009 AT 12:40 PM
No sir it does NOT flash. It is steady with key on and while cranking. Voltage is 12.6
December, 16, 2009 AT 12:48 PM
Should not have steady voltage on NEG side did you remove all but wire to Dist? If yes then pickup in Dist faulty
December, 16, 2009 AT 12:54 PM
I removed all the wires on the negative side of ignition coil except the blue wire going to the Dist. Left everything else the same.
December, 16, 2009 AT 1:00 PM
Check for voltage on blue wire removed from coil check if voltage at coil Neg. No wires. What proceeded this ie. What event happened
December, 16, 2009 AT 1:39 PM
12.6 volts at negative post on coil with NO wires.
.22 volts on blue wire REMOVED from coil.
This problem started with an intermitten loss of power, usually under acceleration. The RPM's would drop, and sometimes the engine would die, but would always start right back up. The vehicle has a Facet HP electric fuel pump, I noticed it making a louder sound when this happened, like it was starving for fuel. It was a new pump, so I replaced it under warranty along with the fuel filter, which was also new. Wired in at power point on bottom of resistor ballast per instructions, it is self-grounding at mounting point *the pump only has 1 wire. It started right up and ran perfect for about 10 mins. It died while I was checking for leaks and putting away tools, have not been able to start it since. No fire to spark plugs. I've since removed the pump wire from the resistor ballast, thinkin maybe it was drawing too many amps.
This engine has less than 200 miles on it after a rebuild, and just passed the California smog test.
Doc, I called Autozone for a price quote on the pickup coil. They claim this vehicle with California emissions does not have one. The part I described to them is the Ignition control module. Small plastic piece inside the Dist. With two wire terminals.
I appreciate you helping me troubleshoot this problem.
December, 16, 2009 AT 2:42 PM
Should be Mitsubishi Dist see diagram check ohms must be 120-109ohms
December, 16, 2009 AT 3:22 PM
Yes it is a mitsubishi, I removed the black plastic half moon piece that had the 2 wires attached from the Dist. The OHM reading is 1281 on the 2000 scale of the meter. So I reckon this is the defective part, correct?
The diagram is a help, would you happen to have one that includes the resistor ballast and the rest of the wiring to it?
Thanks a lot Doc!
December, 16, 2009 AT 3:36 PM
High resistence will not allow coil to produce small signal voltage to igniter that grounds coli to fire