Jack up the left front wheel.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the cotter pin and nut from the end of the half shaft.
Remove the two brake caliper mounting bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. DO NOT let it hang by the hose. Support it to prevent damage to the hose.
Slide the rotor off. Grab it by the edges. Greasy fingerprints on the friction surfaces is the easiest way for a do-it-yourselfer to add a squeal to the brakes.
Remove the bearing mounting bolts from behind the spindle.
Slide the bearing out of the spindle. Tap it with a hammer if it's rusted tight.
Reverse the procedure to install the new bearing.
Put a light film of grease on the hub where the rotor mounts to prevent a crunching noise when turning. Also, notice there are holes in the hub surface. Check the back side of the rotor for rust buildup in the corresponding locations. If you don't clean that off, you'll have a wobble in the steering wheel.
Install the axle nut and tighten it to the specs included with the instruction sheet that came with the new bearing. The cv joint and axle nut hold the bearing assembly together. The proper torque value is critical to bearing life. Typical value will be around 180 to 250 foot pounds.
Install the brake caliper and mounting bolts.
Bolt on the wheel and use a torque wrench to tighten the nuts. Unequal torque will cause a warped rotor over time. Over-tightening will peel the threads on the studs and make the wheel impossible to remove the next time.
To prevent a common, costly mistake, do not jump and and hit the brake pedal. It will likely go to the floor destroying the seals. They will run over corrosion and debris in the bottoms of the bores where they don't normally ride. The low pedal is caused by the piston being forced back into the brake caliper during removal. To reset it, only press the brake pedal no more than half way to the floor, then let up. Do this a few more times until the pedal is solid.
Sunday, November 29th, 2009 AT 9:33 PM