Crankshaft and pistons will not turn over after refresh?

Hi,

If you don't have the heads on yet, we need to check where the clearance is an issue on the crankshaft. I suspect it is one of the main bearings because I feel you would be able to turn it with resistance from one connecting rod bearing.

So, we need to remove the bearing caps first and inspect the positioning of the bearings. Check for evidence of something touching or crushing. If nothing is apparent, make sure the bearings you got are indeed the OEM size and not oversized.

Next, I need you to get plastigauge. It is an inexpensive tool used to test bearing clearance. What you will do is place it at each main bearing and then torque the bearing cap. Last, remove the cap and inspect the plastigage. It will be crushed so based on how crushed it is should let you know which one is the issue.

I attached a pic of the plastigage below, so you have an idea of what I am referring to. Also, make sure that you reinstalled the bearing caps (all of them) in the correct direction and in the original location.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. Whenever you get to it is fine. LOL No hurry.

Take care and let me know what you find.

Joe

Hi,

It sounds like the journals are worn. In that case, you would need an oversized bearing to take up the clearance. Normally, the crank is removed and checked with a micrometer to determine the bearing size needed. If there is any damage to the crankshaft, then it would need to be turned; however, that can only go so far.

If this was my vehicle and I planned to keep it, I would replace the crank or have it machined to know exactly what size bearing to get.

I wish I had a better answer, but that is what needs to be done. If you have a good set of micrometers, measure the journals to determine the size, compare it to the OEM size, and then determine which bearing size you need. Chances are there won't be an exact fit. That's why I suggested having it machined.

Let me know if this helps or if I just made things more confusing.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

They would work. I have a digital caliper I use on everything that I paid 20 bucks for from them. See the pic below.

Is it extremely accurate, let's just say I haven't gotten into any trouble yet. LOL I have to be really close. And yes you could use this to measure.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,

joe

See pic below PS: I certainly understand money being tight. A few years back, I was comfortable. Not anymore. Ugh

Hi,

If those are the readings you got, you are right. There is little wear, but the plastigage indicated something different. The bearings you installed and used to check with the plastigage, what were their conditions?

Based on what you found with the plastigage, there is too much play/clearance.

Joe

Hi,

I have a question. When you had the pistons out, did the connecting rods go back into the same position? Also, there is a notch on each piston that should be toward the front of the engine, did you confirm that?

Take a look at the attached pic. Do you remember having those things together in the way shown? Also, are you sure the end caps (which are numbered by cylinder) are matching the connecting rod which is also numbered?

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Yep, that is what I'm referring to. You indicated the rods and end caps are aligned. Are the numbers stamped on them facing the correct direction as well?

I wish I was there because it isn't making sense to me. Likely because we are emailing each other. If the rod journal is too small, why would it lock the engine when you torque them? You did have the bearings lubricated, correct?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

By no means do I think it's a bad decision. I think it's a good one. Here is what I would do. Get the undersized bearings and dry, use plastigage to see if you are within spec. I suggest doing it dry so you can return them if they make no difference. If you are within spec, then pre-lube them before turning the crank.

Let me know. Also, Happy Easter. And I see nothing you are doing wrong. I think you either got a bad set of bearings or they are labeled incorrectly.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

That's great news, and thanks for the update. If you can, I would love to hear it running when it's all said and done, so feel free to upload a video. LOL

Take care and feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Joe

Wow, that sounds nice! I think I hear what you are referring to. Is it like a hollow thump? Can you tell if it is louder under the vehicle or the top? Is there anything that can bump the oil pan? When I first heard the noise, it sounded like someone taking a rubber mallet and taping the oil pan. LOL That is if I even heard the correct thing.

Let me know.

Joe