Cranks but will not start

Tiny
ZOMBIE850
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
Have the car listed above Ecotec. It threw a P0300 code a week ago. It shook bad when stopped, ran fine down the road. If put in neutral it would be a little better. If you put on the A/C it would shut off. The next day it wouldn't start. It would crank but not start. Plugs are about four months old. Just replaced O2 sensor two weeks ago. 1.) Replaced coil pack( plugs are getting spark) 2.) Replaced ignition control module on coil pack 3.) Had starter tested( it's good) 4.) Replaced crankshaft position sensor (don't think it's getting power, when I crank engine, tachometer doesn't move) 5.)Fuel rail is getting fuel (I sprayed starting fluid in throttle body and didn't even try to start) 6.)Fuel pump is pumping 7.) New idle air control valve 8.) New throttle position sensor 9.) Kinda sounded like timing chain, so checked that and it's still on and okay 10.) Checked all fuses and relays 11.) No security light on, still tried to reset security just in case Looked for loose wires and electrical connections. Still won't start, doesn't even try. Could it be the ignition switch, alternator? Any help would be much appreciated, it's my work car and can't afford another one right now. Thank you
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 1:23 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good evening,

In these cases, I replace the coils, cap, wire ends, and module.

The cap is what causes the failures of the coils and the module. It was a lousy design for the ignition system.

There is no voltage to the crank sensor. It generates a signal to the PCM.

Roy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 3:42 PM
Tiny
ZOMBIE850
  • MEMBER
I've replaced the whole coil pack, rubber boots with inside springs and module twice. I returned the first set I bought and got another set. Still not starting. Thanks for the help.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 3:48 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
What about the cap? It carbon tracks like the old distributor caps.

Roy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 4:24 PM
Tiny
ZOMBIE850
  • MEMBER
I don't believe it has a cap. (Distributor cap?) The picture you posted with the coil pack, I replaced that whole thing but there aren't any coil wires. Just the wire harness going into the ignition coil on top. I really appreciate your help. I'm at a complete loss.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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There is a cap that the coils bolt into. The piece that has the four bolts and is the length of the valve cover is the cap.

Roy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
ZOMBIE850
  • MEMBER
Okay, yeah, I thought that was the coil pack. Sorry, yes that has been replaced twice as well as the ignition control (the silver part on the top end of the cap).
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Okay, check the wire in the diagram for power with the key on.

Roy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
ZOMBIE850
  • MEMBER
Thank you Roy, I'll have to try it tomorrow, I'll let you know if it has power.
When I checked the other day each of spark plugs would spark when I turned it over, I put it all back together and sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body and not even a hint of it firing, just cranks. When I crank it over I noticed the tachometer isn't moving which leads me to believe that there isn't power going to the crankshaft position sensor. I followed all the wires and they look okay. That's why I'm possibly thinking the ignition switch isn't providing power to the ignition but it is to the starter. But just a theory. But if that wire you said to check isn't getting power, the ignition switch may be the issue.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 5:52 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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There is no voltage to the crank sensor. It generates a signal and that goes to the PCM.

Did you do a compression test?

Roy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
ZOMBIE850
  • MEMBER
I did a compression test, it has compression. I replaced the (CPS) crankshaft position sensor but didn't check the power to the CPS until I already replaced it and it isn't showing any voltage. That's where I'm thinking something with ignition switch or missing power from somewhere. At this point I'm just guessing.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Okay, for the third time there is no voltage to the crank sensor. It does not need voltage to generate the signal.

What was the compression?

Roy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:02 PM
Tiny
ZOMBIE850
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Okay, gotcha. No voltage to CPS.

If I remember correctly (1) 155(2) 150 (3) 155(4) 150.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Did you check the actual fuel pressure?

Roy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
ZOMBIE850
  • MEMBER
I didn't have a gauge but it has a valve on the fuel rail and I pressed it after the fuel pump ran and it sprayed out quite a bit of it. I also figured since I sprayed starting fluid it should have tried to start if it wasn't getting fuel and got nothing.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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I would check the actual pressure. If you are 5 lbs low, it will not start.

Roy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
ZOMBIE850
  • MEMBER
I can see if I can borrow one from AutoZone and test it. I also haven't tried testing the MAP sensor or coolant temperature sensor yet, which I've heard they will cause it not to start either. Thank you for all your help, I really appreciate it. I'll see what I can check on it tomorrow and let you know. Thanks again
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:28 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
ZOMBIE850
  • MEMBER
I tested the pink wire with the ignition "on" and read 12.3 volts. I wasn't able to rent a fuel pressure gauge or compression test kit yet. I'll probably do that on Sunday.
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 2:26 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Sounds like a plan.

Roy
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 4:21 PM

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