Couple different intermittent problems w/ CEL and P0102 code

Tiny
MKNEPPER62
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 BUICK PARK AVENUE
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 169,000 MILES
Hi, thank you so much for any help/advice in advance, I have posted for help on about 5 different sites and not received not even 1 response. I began to notice some hesitation on light acceleration the car would jerk a little almost like running out of gas, next problem was when starting; 1st start of the day or after sitting several hours car would start and hold idle just fine, then as soon as the car was warmed up car would turn fine but as soon as it started stall out unable to hold an idle, if I gave it a little gas for about 10 seconds or longer and forced it to hold an idle it would be fine after, last problem car would suddenly upshift hard, sometimes very hard and make the car jerk big time, most of the time if I pulled over and let the car cool down for ten minutes or so the hard shifting would stop for a little bit or sometimes even go away for a day or two. 1st I syphened some tranny fluid out through the fill hole (very red, healthy looking, no noticeable metal in fluid) and put in a quart of some transfix fluid stuff, car has shifted wonderfully for two months, in last two days have noticed just a couple of delayed shift times, feels like it grabs for just a second. I had my battery tested while having a tire repaired about two weeks ago and it was cranking very low so I replaced it and since have not a single time had a problem with holding an idle at start, car fires and holds idle perfect cold and hot. Still have occasional stuttering but not frequently at all maybe every few days and only once or twice. I replaced the MAFS, MAPS, TPS, IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, I've had the CEL code pulled and it's P0102 MAFS/LOW FREQUENCY or circuit something (can't remember exactly what the second part said) every time I clear the code it comes back within a couple of hours. I would guess that some of my issues are unrelated but I wanted to provide as much info as possible. It is close to $300 for an OEM MAFS so the replacement I used is an aftermarket one that I bought online for about 25bux. I just ordered a multimeter to check the wires, if it is an issue with the wiring will I be able to splice new wire to the MAFS plug? Is it hard to replace the wires completely? When replacing the Idle air control valve I noticed the carbon build up was pretty thick, I made a quick attempt at cleaning the throttle body, but that screen prevents a good cleaning without removing the throttle body, I have read mixed opinions regarding the removal of the screen, is it ok to take it off? How about removing it just to clean the throttle body is it easy to put back on? Any ideas why I'm still throwing the MAFS code? How do I check for a vacuum leak that would cause this code? Sorry for the lengthy post, and that you so much for any help. -Matthew
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Sunday, September 6th, 2015 AT 11:24 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
The maf has to be checked with a scan tool that can read hertz if under 1200 hertz then it's screwed up. But check for air leaks like duct work with holes in it prior and after maf also check for pcv not working installed incorrectly as well as a vacuum leak. Remove duct work from throttle body and clean plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner. It can be a connection/wiring issue as lwel.
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Monday, September 7th, 2015 AT 6:37 AM
Tiny
MKNEPPER62
  • MEMBER
I have some detailed instructions for checking the MAFS wires, and made sure that the multi-meter that I ordered measures hertz, any tips/hints on checking for vacuum leaks? I've read a little bit and watched a few videos, most offer either the cigar smoke trick, or the carb cleaner trick. Could it be a vacuum leak anywhere that is causing the issue, or would it definitely be something near the MAFS? I was able to clean the IAC hold pretty good with a rag and some throttle body cleaner, but it didn't look like I would be able to get to either side of the plate without removing the whole throttle body and/or the screen that's right behind the air intake tubing that connects to the throttle body. I could remove the throttle body, the only thing that I was worried about was disconnecting and reinstalling the throttle cable linkage, is this pretty simple? Thanks for your help I really appreciate it! I do a pretty good job when it comes to repairs on my own vehicle I'm just a little bit of a chicken, I won't attempt a job until I have watched ten videos, and studied a ton of repair guides, and am %110 confident that I will be able to finish the job. I have yet to fail a repair attempt, so I continue to be a causious chicken :-) Thanks again!
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Monday, September 7th, 2015 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Open your throttle plate with your finger or linkage if you have it with engine off and spray choke cleaner on top then do other side when it's closed make sure to get where the shaft comes through, you don't need to take it off. Just take the duct work off of the throttle body. The only screen I know of is the one by the maf and that just is to stop big pieces from entering. Cleaning a maf is a waste of time and money. There is no vacuum near the maf the leak can be anywhere or an air leak like a bad grommet on engine or broken hose etc. Choke cleaner is good
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Tuesday, September 8th, 2015 AT 5:51 AM

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