Engine running rough and check engine light is on, codes P2311 and P2317

Tiny
BRI2000
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 DODGE JOURNEY
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
I have the vehicle listed above that triggered the engine light on and it started running rough. I turned the car off and then back on, and it was running like normal.
I checked the code with one of those AutoZone $50.00 code readers, and it showed as the coil F and D weren’t working. (Code p2311 and p2317) I replaced them Even though the engine was working completely fine, I did the unplug and plug test, all coils were all working, the wiring doesn’t look bad or anything, spark plugs were replaced too. I cleared the code on the ECM with the code reader and I turn off the engine light with the “put the key to on three times” method but every 100-200 miles the engine light turns on, which makes the engine run rough (literary just when the engine light turns on, I literary turn the car off and on, and it runs perfectly, smoothly, like all coils are working perfectly!). Help, I’m running out of ideas.
Thank you all in advance!
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Monday, November 23rd, 2020 AT 8:36 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Hello, since you have already replaced the 2 suspect coils and plugs, you are either having a driver problem in the ECM due to the old coils being shorted out and when the ECM heats up it causes the drivers to fail, a wiring issue where those coils are shorting to power (this code is set when the burn time of the coil isn't long enough). A couple things you can do, is swap those coils to different cylinder and see if the problem follows to that cylinder. See if you get codes for a different cylinder, if the problem stays at the original cylinder then it's a wire or ECM issue. The ECM will shut down the fuel injector if it sees an issue to prevent the catalytic converters from being damaged. Here's a diagram of the ignition coils. They all share a power wire and the ECM controls the coils individually on the ground side. But swap the coils first and watch for new codes.

*Edit, make sure you check for any loose or corroded pins at the coils or ECM.
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Monday, November 23rd, 2020 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
BRI2000
  • MEMBER
I will switch them out and see if the problem follows or if it stays in the same cylinder. I will send updated info once the engine light triggers again. Thank you!
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Monday, November 23rd, 2020 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
No problem, the real issue is those coil drivers in the ECM are pretty fragile and when a coil and shorts out it sends current down through and burns the driver inside the ECM. A lot of times people will replace coils and still have the same problem because something else has been damaged. Same with fuel injectors. Also since those two coils are on the same bank the same side of the engine I would put them to the opposite side of the engine.
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Monday, November 23rd, 2020 AT 10:27 AM
Tiny
BRI2000
  • MEMBER
That makes sense. Just to be clear, if the problem stays in the same cylinder, probably will need a replacement ECM. Correct?
Is it safe to drive it, without causing more damage? Since it s running completely fine (until the engine light turns on, then I shut it off and back on and it continues to run fine).
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Monday, November 23rd, 2020 AT 10:43 AM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
If the new coils you installed are okay, the problem should stay in the bad cylinder, because the driver will still be controlling the same circuits. I would start there, the reason it's okay after you turn the car off and on again is because your resetting the ECM. Let's see what's going on with the coils first. It is possible that the keep alive memory isn't staying powered up, but we'll address that later. If you have a multimeter you can also check the resistance of each coil and see if any are different than others. *Edit if the ECM is bad I always want to find what cause the ECM to go bad.
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Monday, November 23rd, 2020 AT 10:48 AM

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