Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com. Both of those codes related to an open circuit in injector 1 and 3.
Some of the possible causes for these codes include but not limited to:
Wiring harness that has an open or short.
Poor electrical connection in the harness or connector.
Keep in mind, you may not even feel this when driving the vehicle. The injectors may be running too lean or rich due to the open.
To diagnose this type of problem, I would recommend doing the following:
1) Inspect wiring and connectors for damage, making sure they are tight and connections are clean.
2) Using a scanner, I would check for the code and any freeze frame data that may indicate specific conditions leading to the malfunction.
3) I would then document any information I find, clear the code, and drive the vehicle to see if the problem returns or if it was a one time thing.
4) If the same code/s come back, I would then check for voltage at the injector to determine proper operation. A noid light can be used to determine injector pulse.
5) If everything checks out good, then the PCM would be the next step. However, since it started after the work was performed, chances are you have a loose connection or a wire was damaged without you realizing. It is easy to do.
Here are general directions for checking an injector:
In the link, he is using a test light to check for injector pulse. A noid light will attache directly to the injector wiring. If you check for injection group resistance, it should fall between 5-6 ohms.
I have tried to locate a schematic for your review, but for this particular vehicle, it does not seem available.
Regardless, I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have other questions.
Monday, May 14th, 2018 AT 6:57 PM