It's not likely both sensors failed at the same time. Did you get codes for both of them? Did you check for spark?
Back probe the dark green / orange stripe wire at the coil pack. There must be 12 volts on that wire for one to two seconds when the ignition switch is turned on, then it will go to 0 volts. That is proof the circuitry is ok.
Next, the voltage should come back during engine cranking. If it does not, there will be no spark and the fuel pump won't be running either. Normally the first suspect would be the camshaft position sensor. The crankshaft position sensor would be next. Since you replaced them already, we'll move on.
Next, check the timing belt for a jumped tooth. If it jumped one tooth, the Check Engine light would have turned on. At two teeth, the engine computer stops the engine. At three teeth, open valves hit the pistons. If the belt timing appears to be correct, tie the belt to the camshaft sprocket with a piece of wire, then remove the sprocket from the camshaft. Inspect the dowel pin between the cam and sprocket. Replace it if it is sheared off. The sprocket can turn just a little. The timing marks will be perfectly lined up yet, but the camshaft is late by a few degrees. Since the camshaft position sensor is on the other end, its signal is out-of-sync with the crankshaft position sensor's signal so the computer turns the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay off. That relay is what turns the 12 volts on to the ignition coil pack, injectors, fuel pump or pump relay, alternator field, and oxygen sensor heaters.
Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010 AT 1:45 PM