Before you do this.
Understand that I found this under a no-start condition procedure. There is no test that I could find for that sensor. That sensor may not be bad.
Before you buy it, I would rather have the code number you pulled and check the flow chart on it. I have had the testing information not be accurate in the past. Maybe the maf is bad and is one possible solution, but so would an air leak occuring after the sensor in the duct work or an intake gasket leak.
$140 is a pretty strong leap of faith. That connecter I mentioned earlier may also be playing into this.
If I was going to try a maf sensor I would probably stop at a junkyard and get one. If I went for a new one, I would ohm out the okd one and then ohm out the new one at the parts store before I was to buy it. These are not a terribly common thing on these in my experience.
Sunday, March 9th, 2008 AT 5:44 AM