Car would not crank over?

Tiny
MYCARSUCKSHELP
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 HYUNDAI VELOSTER
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
This has been ongoing for several weeks now. I thought it was my starter based on Google research, however, I am by no means a car expert or mechanic and fear I might have made the problem worse. I replaced the starter with what I hope is the right one, I had the guy at the shop verify it for me based on having a 1.6L turbo. After I replaced it the only other thing I did was keep the plastic piece on the top of the engine off, as requested by the YouTube video I watched for instructions. I got it to start after replacing the starter but now it sounds a lot more harsh when starting the car, and the same type of problems are occurring from before it stopped starting in the first place. Previously, my tachometer would work intermittently, and my check engine light would come on when it would start working again, and the check engine light would turn off when the tachometer would give up. Also if I sit in idle, at lights or on breaks at work, every now and then the engine will just shut off. It hasn't stalled or anything while driving, only when idling, although sometimes idling for a very little amount of time. I need some guidance on what to do before I give up and take it to a shop and put more money on a credit card instead of fixing it myself, any questions of feedback is welcome so I can save money in this weird time we're living in, thanks all.
Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 10:21 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
  • 467 POSTS
Hello,

I can help you out. The real problem your trying to handle it the intermittent tachometer and random shut down but it would crank and start again after it stalled out? I'm taking it the starter you put in is starting the car currently? In the beginning what made you think the starter was bad, you had a no start condition, with no cranking taking place? If you have or had the engine light go on you should get in scanned at the local parts place, several do it for free Napa/ Autozone, etc. Get the codes and let me know what they are and we can go from there.

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

Tom
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:47 AM
Tiny
MYCARSUCKSHELP
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  • 6 POSTS
I replaced the starter initially because along with the tachometer and check engine light, the ignition cranking took longer and longer until it stopped cranking at all. I work nights so I'm having to wait until tomorrow to get error codes. Will update. Quick side note; the check engine light does go away after the tachometer decides to work.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 1:44 AM
Tiny
MYCARSUCKSHELP
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Oh and yes, after replacing the starter, although it sounds terrible when cranking, it does regularly start even after stalling.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 1:45 AM
Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
  • 467 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds to me like the hard start issue in the beginning with a longer and longer crank time burned out your previous starter so we are going to have to get to the bottom of the hard start long crank time issue before the new starter gets overworked. I'm leaning toward a fuel issue as the original problem the codes that you get will help us in this light. If the fuel pressure is leaking down when the car is off that would explain the longer crank time before it starting. Your tachometer is run by the ECU and the CAN system is involved. There is probably an issue with the CAN not communicating with the different modules this also will have to be scanned. The new starter making noise is a concern, you mentioned you were hoping it was the correct one. Only the proper one would even bolt up, what made you think it might not be right? I would make sure its fully tightened down. It being loose would make it be noisy. For sure get the system scanned and check that starter for being loose and let me know.
Tom
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 8:44 AM
Tiny
MYCARSUCKSHELP
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Error codes were P0336 and P0106.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
  • 467 POSTS
Okay,

That's your crank position sensor and your map sensor being bad. The MAP sensor will make the hard start and and rough running. So it should be replaced. The crank sensor must be not fully bad yet because it will run. But should be replaced.
Tom
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 2:47 PM
Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
  • 467 POSTS
The MAP sensor will be on the intake manifold and the crank sensor probably down by the crank pulley but I will get those locations to you here in a little bit.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 2:48 PM
Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
  • 467 POSTS
Hello,
Sorry for the delay,
Here are the locations for all the sensors for your car. Looks like number 6 is your cranks sensor and number 2 is your MAP sensor. This should get you back running again. Have you taken a better look at the starter. This sound you speak of has me concerned. If yo can make a video or recording of the start sound of the car that would help out too. If you need anything else to get this done just let me know.
Tom
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 10:34 PM
Tiny
MYCARSUCKSHELP
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Went to record the ignition after work and it didn't start again. Didn't even try to. I waited 15 minutes and tried again and it started.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 PM
Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
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Hello,

Great, so it started, that's a step in the right direction. Did you get a chance to change out the sensors listed from the codes that were stored? Those should take care of your issue.
Tom
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Wednesday, August 26th, 2020 AT 4:27 PM
Tiny
MYCARSUCKSHELP
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Changed the crankshaft sensor and ordered the MAP sensor. Will update if any further issues arise. Thank you for everything.
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Wednesday, August 26th, 2020 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, great.
Yes please keep us posted.
Tom
2CarPros
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Wednesday, August 26th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM

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