Car stuttering to accelerate after stops

Hey SKYLARR. JADE,

I have found a TSB (technical service bulletin) that may be applicable to your vehicle.

Have a read through and see if that sounds like a good match.

The fix would be to go to an infinity dealer and get the ECM (engine control module) reprogrammed with the latest software.

I would call first, give them your VIN and they should be able to tell you if this TSB is valid and applicable to your car.

It's a good place to start to avoid chasing an issue which is potentially software related.

If you have no engine management fault codes this could be the problem, what is the ABS code you have?

Regards, Joe

Hey SKYLARR.JADE,

I would advise that a fault with your wheel speed sensor should not cause the fault you are experiencing.

If there is an issue with the idle when you try and pull away the vehicle may hesitate.
This could be explained by the TSB i sent you.

With no fault codes the reprogramming would be a good start.

Try calling your closest infinity dealer and asking if they have had vehicles with a similar fault whether the TSB is applicable and a good place to start.

Dealers will have seen the most of these vehicles.

How far is your nearest dealer?

You can also try checking for vacuum leaks, guide below:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Also cleaning your throttle body, guide below -
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

These are things the mechanics you have visited are likely to have checked but worth rechecking yourself to be sure.

Is the idle smooth when in Park? Then does it try and stall when you put it into Drive?

What did the transmission mechanic do?

Regards, Joe

Hey SKYLARR. JADE,

No problem. I understand you want to avoid going to the dealer if possible.

Vacuum leaks can for sure cause the issue you are having, if you have a leak it will cause unmetered air to get into the intake which affects the idle. When the engine heats up expansion can cause the leak to seal and your idle can then improve.

Checking the plausibility of the temperature sensor readings if you can access a scanner with live data would also be a good idea. With the vehicle cold, ignition on but engine not running you can compare the coolant temp, ambient temp, intake air temperature etc. This will give you a good idea if any are giving an implausible reading.

Throttle body cleaning is a good idea as contamination around the throttle plate can cause a reduction in idle air flow. It can also cause the throttle to stick and not reach the desired position that the ECM is trying to achieve.

One last thing that might be worth trying is a battery reset. If you remove the battery cables from the battery and connect the positive and negative cables together (normally for around thirty minutes) it discharges the capacitors that keep the memory in the ECM stored if the battery is disconnected. You must have the battery cables clear of the battery terminals during this process, to be safe remove the battery.

This is know as a battery reset, hard reset or capacitor discharge.

Please if you are not comfortable with this process get a shop to do it. You can cause damage if you short the cables together whilst still in contact with the battery terminals.

This will reset learned values in the ECM, if this does improve the situation for a while it does point to potentially programming being a cure to this issue.

Any further questions please do not hesitate to ask.

Regards, Joe