Camshaft sensor code 65

Tiny
NASER NASER
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 BMW 528
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 179,000 MILES
Has a code that I deleted and after 5 minutes came back. Car doesn't have the fuel power expected from an inline 6, thinking maybe this is the cause. It just says code 65 camshaft sensor.
528i
Friday, June 5th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
Hi,

That is a BMW code. It is the same as a P0340 which indicates either the cam sensor is not synchronized with the crankshaft sensor or it isn't sending a signal. See pic 1.

Have you replaced the sensor? If not, the first thing I would do is simply inspect it and the connector to it. Make sure nothing is loose, damaged or corroded. I will supply the directions for replacement so you can see location.

_____________________________________

1997 BMW 528i (E39) L6-2793cc 2.8L DOHC (M52)
Procedures
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Camshaft Position Sensor Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
- Interrogate fault memory of DME control unit.
- Switch off Ignition.

Pic 2

- Remove cover from injector valves.

Pic 3

- Disconnect plug connection for VANOS solenoid valve on electrical strip on injector valves.

Pic 4

- Unscrew solenoid.

Installation Note: Check gasket and replace if necessary.

Tightening Torque = 30 Nm.

Pic 5

- Unfasten hydraulic line on VANOS adjustment unit.

Tightening Torque = 32 Nm.

Pic 6

- Release screw on sensor.

Tightening Torque = 5.0 Nm.

Installation Note: Check gasket and replace if necessary.

Pic 7

- Disconnect plug-in connection(3). Plug connection illustrated here with intake manifold removed.

Installation Note: Interrogate fault memory of DME control unit, check faults in memory, rectify faults in memory, rectify faults and clear fault memory.

________________________

Let me know if this helps. Keep in mind, this could even be related to a stretched timing chain.

I hope this helps.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, June 5th, 2020 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
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I will check it out. What would be the typical issues a car would have when the sensor is bad?
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Friday, June 5th, 2020 AT 9:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
Interestingly, often times they go into a predetermined sequence allowing the vehicle to run in a manner which seems normal. However, fuel economy and performance are affected.
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Friday, June 5th, 2020 AT 10:22 PM
Tiny
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  • MEMBER
  • 836 POSTS
Replaced it. Same code after I deleted it.
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Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
Hi,

Do me a favor. We need to check things at the connector. The brown wire is ground to the PCM, the yellow is the signal wire to the PCM. The black wire is power from the PCM.

Check for those things at the connector. If they are good, then something is throwing off the timing between the crank and cam sensors. At 180,000 miles, the chain could be stretched.

Let me know.
Joe
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Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
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Sure, with a test light okay? How would I differentiate between the positive and the signal?
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Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 7:07 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
Naser, the power wire is the black one; the signal is yellow. A test light may make things a bit tricky. As far as power, (should be around 5v) the light should turn on when the key is in the run position. Checking signal is different and I don't think it will work with a test light.

Make sure to check for continuity to ground as well.

Joe
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+1
Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
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  • MEMBER
  • 836 POSTS
Gotcha, so you saying multimeter?
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Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
That is what I would suggest. You should see a pulse signal and I don't think a light would work.

Joe
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Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM

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