2003 Cadillac CTS trunk release

Tiny
BRUNSWICK123
  • 2003 CADILLAC CTS

2003 Cadillac CTS

cannot open trunk with either keyless transmitter or in car trunk release button. How do I repair

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Friday, April 3rd, 2009 AT 10:06 AM

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Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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Can you get the trunk open at all. I would check the easiest at first, the actuator on the lid. It might be hidden by a liner held on with clips. If you have and can use a test light, connect it across pins 'A'(tan/white) and 'B'(black). Push the door button and/or fob button, the light should light. If it don't, then check the 'trunk dr release' fuse in left rear fuse block(under rear seat bottom that pulls up). There is a relay(trunk dr rel solenoid) also located in the left rear fuse block. Listen for this to click when trunk switch is pressed. Let me know the progress.

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Friday, April 3rd, 2009 AT 11:19 PM
Tiny
VITKER
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I have the same problem with my cts. I dont get any clicking from the celinoid. What can it be?

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Thursday, August 6th, 2009 AT 10:06 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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If you have power on the circuits I described, replace the trunk release actuator/latch.

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Friday, August 7th, 2009 AT 11:08 PM
Tiny
VITKER
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The latch works fine. I tried it on my friends Cts.

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Saturday, August 8th, 2009 AT 4:31 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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I don't understand what your after. If you checked power and ground with the info listed above, and you still get nothing from the release solenoid, replace the solenoid/actuator.

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Saturday, August 8th, 2009 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
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I tried the latch. It works. I tested the solinoid. It works. Checked the fuse. Its fine. Put everything together and the trunk doesnt open. I tested the wires and I dont get nothing. There is power because one wire is hot. But thats it. I dont know........?

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Sunday, August 16th, 2009 AT 10:50 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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The rear integration module provides the ground signal to control the trunk release micro relay. At the trunk release solenoid connector, The tan/white wire(pin a) should be hot when a request to open is sent. That validates the relay, fuse, and signal. If you have that signal, then check pin B black wire continuity to ground, it is G402 located in the trunk by the left(drivers side) taillight.

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Monday, August 17th, 2009 AT 11:44 PM
Tiny
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The ground that is in the trunk is hooked up. The thing is that the relay under the back seat does not click. I checked where it plugs in and my tester light up. I then took a piece of wire and stuck it into the slots, and the trunk lock opened and stayed open until I pulled the wire out. Then the lock closed. So if I bypass the relay the lock opens but doesnt close. I tried putting new relays in. But still have no click. I checked and all the grounds are connected on the main wires. There are three of them. So I am stuck lol. Guess have to take it to the dealer.........

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Monday, August 31st, 2009 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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As simple as the system should be, it isn't. With what you have done so far, it looks like you only have a few possibilities. Control of the relay is done by the rear integration module grounding it, and that appears to be what is missing. It grounds the relay in response to messages sent to it on the data line, this is where the integration of the keyless path, and the door switch path, is made. You should be able to verify that you have two powers at the relay connector, and then you would almost need a scan tool to read data and see if the RIM is getting a trunk release request. If it is, then you could have a bad RIM, missing power on the control side(which is on the same fuse through a joint connector in the fuse block), or an open ground circuit between the relay and the RIM.

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Monday, August 31st, 2009 AT 9:58 PM
Tiny
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Thanks you have been big help. Guess I will just have to take it to dealer then. Sucks without the trunk you know

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Friday, September 4th, 2009 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
DVANDEWALLE
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Hi. I have an issue with my trunk release as well. I get the click / voltage change at the relay, but I can not get a test light to work at the rear hatch connector. My thought was that this must be a grounding issue in the wiring between the latch and the relay. Is there anything else I should check before I tear into the wiring? Also, is there a way to remove the LR fuse box in order to check the wiring connection there? I can't find any information on removing it. Thanks.

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Friday, April 9th, 2010 AT 6:59 AM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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If you are using a known good ground and probing the tan/white wire, you are not getting power from the relay. If you are getting relay activity, that means the fuse is good, it supplies both the control side and the controlled side. Next you would check the continuity of the tan/white wire to the fuse block terminal R33 if it is labeled.

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Friday, April 9th, 2010 AT 12:57 PM
Tiny
DVANDEWALLE
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Thank you for your help in describing each wire's function. I could not find a wiring diagram anywhere so it was nearly impossible to diagnose. I checked the tan/white wire against all 4 spots on the relay and it didn't have continuity with any of them. With this information, I went digging and I found the wire had a break in it in the portion that lies inside the protective plastic cover (not sure how that could happen). I can't tell you how nice it is to have my trunk back after months of having to open using the seat pass-thru. Thanks again!

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Sunday, April 11th, 2010 AT 5:12 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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Your welcome, glad I could be of some assistance.

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Sunday, April 11th, 2010 AT 7:32 PM

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