Brake fluid leak causes all four brakes to fail after driving with the emergency brakes engaged?

Tiny
JAMES20192023
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD ASPIRE
  • 1.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
I lost all four braking abilities while I was driving at 60 miles an hour going downhill tonight, and I managed to come to a stop, eventually. What a nightmare that was. I was driving my sister's old ford aspire car 1996. The emergency brakes were engaged, and I was not aware of it. 30 miles later on highway 81, I decided to stop for a coffee. I stepped on the brakes as I signal towards the exit. The car loses balance and stability and my foot on the brake pedal sinks to the floor. I tried to engage the emergency brakes only to find out it was already engaged and loose with no help. I pumped the brakes and got little to no stopping. I was lucky the exit ramp went uphill slowing the car by about 45 MPH all the way to 15 MPH. I continued to pump the brakes with each pumping the car slows down few miles until it came to a stop. The rear wheel is drenched with oil and smoking. I managed to push the car to the travel center at the corner, I lifted the car and noticed the rear left wheel was the only one with brake fluid leak. I checked the brake master cylinder: empty! All of the fluid leaked out the rear left wheel brake line. What happened? I left the car there and got my sister to travel from North Carolina to pick me up. I went under and checked. I could not see any noticeable break or detachment but the area around the brake line connection was drenched with fluid and the wheel were soaked. How do I fix this? Thanks
Saturday, November 25th, 2023 AT 8:32 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,200 POSTS
Hi,

Wow, you are lucky. As far as the brakes, if you see brake fluid behind the wheel, either the steel brake line has failed or the brake wheel cylinder. You will need to remove the tire and brake drum to inspect the wheel cylinder.

I attached an exploded view of the rear brakes below. I highlighted the wheel cylinder. Note that the steel brake line attaches to this part from the rear where you said it was very wet.

If you are still unable to locate the leak, fill the brake master cylinder with fluid. Have a helper slowly depress the brake pedal while you watch for a leak. Just make sure to protect your eyes.

Also, if you could upload a few pictures of what you are seeing, it may be helpful.

Take care and let me know what you find.

Joe

See pic below.
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Saturday, November 25th, 2023 AT 10:24 PM
Tiny
JAMES20192023
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  • 34 POSTS
Yeah, I agree it is probably the wheel cylinder having been pressurized all that time. I do not have access to the car where I left it at the travel center last night (Saturday) and today is Sunday. I will go back and replace the cylinder on the spot (hopefully nothing is seized or damaged besides the cylinder and hope the drum and parts aren't stuck together). I attached a video clip of what I saw immediately after stopping.
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Sunday, November 26th, 2023 AT 12:35 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Yep, something came apart. I don't know if you need them, but I attached the directions below for replacing the wheel cylinder and bleeding the system.

Let me know what you find. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Sunday, November 26th, 2023 AT 4:39 PM
Tiny
JAMES20192023
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
I am curious as to whether I could use a spreader to spread the brake shoes apart instead of removing them in the middle of nowhere. If yes, provide me a link as to where I could buy them from. I appreciate your help.
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Monday, November 27th, 2023 AT 6:15 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I never saw that done. As far as doing it, you don't need to remove everything. Just remove the return springs. You don't need to remove the retainers. However, it may be more difficult to get back together.

Let me know how you make out.

Joe
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Monday, November 27th, 2023 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
JAMES20192023
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Today, I was told I could access the adjuster by removing the rear grommet, then inserting a flathead screwdriver and rotating the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes move away from the drum. This makes removing the drum easier. Once the wheel cylinder is accessible, the opposite should be done (moving the shoes away from the cylinder) to make it easier to remove the wheel cylinder without having to remove the shoes. Please, let me know if that is something I should try. I am going back up tomorrow to replace it and bring back the car.
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Monday, November 27th, 2023 AT 10:50 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,200 POSTS
Hi,

This self-adjuster is different. Take a look at the directions below for replacing brake shoes. One of the last things they explain is how they are adjusted.

The last pic explains how to remove the brake drum. This one has a bearing that comes off with the rear drum. Take a look and let me know if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe
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Tuesday, November 28th, 2023 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
JAMES20192023
  • MEMBER
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HI, I left (at about 12 noon) before reading your response (8:11pm). When I got there, I removed the drum. The brake shoe pads were paper-thin and crusted (fell apart as I was removing the drum. After removing the cap, the cotter pin, the locknut, the drum came out without prying on it more than once. The washer and outer bearings fell out of the center of the drum (I did not get a chance to look at how they were inserted or positioned and thought it would not be a problem putting it back together). Inner seal and bearing remained intact within the drum. What's more, the brake shoes backings were incredibly loose, moved up and down and side-ways at will. I removed the wheel cylinder with no problem. No rubber covers on either side to be found (they were both gone and oil soaked every part of the brake system). I ordered the hardware kit. I had a new wheel cylinder (but no good without replacing everything else) and ordered the new shoes (they will be here tomorrow). I needed to bring the car back to North Carolina, so I got me a 10mm fitting with an adapter cap and capped off the brake line after bleeding the brakes. It worked! I got front brakes. Putting the drum back on was something else. For some reason I could not figure out how the outer bearing and washer went into the drum (don't ask me why I could not figure out such a simple task). I tried different ways of installing them, but the drum refused to seat all the way in. The outer locknut after rotating it would end up sitting on top of the cotter pin hole. I spent two hours in 25-degree temperature trying. Finally, I decide to install everything as best as I thought would be possible and mounted the wheel and tire and drove it may be 10 miles at 25 miles per hour: the wheel was making noise, something was not seated right. Next exit: dismounted everything and took off the drum again. 18 Wheelers and their drivers everywhere around me. This guy crosses my path and says "I almost ran you down with your little ford at 25 mph." I told him what the problem was. He kneeled next to me and said" "hold on." He went to his truck and got a metal file and a flashlight. He filed down the steel shaft without touching the threads, I was like "why are you doing this?" He said: "you almost ruined the shaft" because the outer bearing was installed in reverse (the tapered end was installed outwardly). I told him, I really tried to do it correctly, but it did not want to go in that position. He said: "I put the washer first instead of last." A socket pressed against the bearing after filing the shaft, a couple of strikes with a hammer and in it went! (Which made the drum seat perfectly). I installed the wheel and tire and drove off at speed limit. I saw your instructions when I got home at 2 am. Your instructions show the correct order of installation. I definitely needed to know that the tapered end had to be driven and goes in first followed by the washer. Intuitively, I knew that, and it would have worked if I had driven the outer bearing with the back of a socket. Anyway, I will replace the brakes when I get the parts.
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Wednesday, November 29th, 2023 AT 1:30 AM
Tiny
JAMES20192023
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Here is what it looked like and how I capped off the brake line.
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Wednesday, November 29th, 2023 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
JAMES20192023
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Here are more images.
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Wednesday, November 29th, 2023 AT 11:48 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,200 POSTS
Hi,

Wow, that is a mess. The rubber dust boots are of interest. Was there any evidence of them?

As far as the brake shoe movement in the video is concerned, that is normal. Also, reversing the wheel bearing certainly will cause an issue. I'm glad someone was there to help. You wouldn't have made it very far.

Let me know when you get the parts and how things turn out for you. Also, if you have additional questions or if I can help in any way, let me know.

Take care,

Joe
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Wednesday, November 29th, 2023 AT 9:09 PM

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