Brake bleeding rear calipers?

Doesn't matter. Most vehicles of this type use a "split-diagonal" hydraulic system, meaning the left rear brake is on the same hydraulic circuit with the right front brake. The two rear brakes are on different circuits.

There won't be much bleeding involved when replacing calipers, however, you must be careful to not allow the brake fluid reservoir to run empty. If it does, you may get enough air in the lines to require extensive bleeding. I do have a simple trick to address that. Also, of it looks like it will take some time between removing the old calipers and when the new ones get bolted on, a simple trick to prevent the brake fluid from running out of the reservoir is to place a stick between the driver's seat cushion and the brake pedal to hold the pedal down about an inch. Gravity won't be strong enough to pull brake fluid past the lip seals in the master cylinder.

Once the brake work is done, loosen the cap on the reservoir to prevent vacuum from building up that would impede the free flow of fluid. Open the bleeder screws, then wait for brake fluid to start dripping from them. When one is dripping fluid, close that bleeder screw and wait for the next one to do the same thing. If no fluid drips out after a few minutes, it may be necessary to "irritate" the brake pedal by hand a few times to get the flow started. Press it only an inch or two, no more.

Your rear calipers do not incorporate the parking brake mechanism. They use the more simple, common sense design that is the same as the front calipers. As such, after compressing the pistons so you can fit in the new pads, those pistons have to be adjusted out by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal. When you do that, be very careful to not press it more than halfway to the floor. By about the first year in the life of master cylinder, crud and corrosion build up in the lower halves of the bores where the pistons don't normally travel. Anything that allows the pistons to travel too far will run the rubber lip seals over that crud and can rip them. That results in a slowly sinking brake pedal, and that commonly takes two or three days to show up. Press the brake pedal halfway repeatedly until it becomes firm, indicating both calipers are in adjustment.

Open each bleeder screw once more to expel the few remaining air bubbles that may have washed into the calipers. During this service, keep checking the level in the reservoir.

As the brake pads wear, the pistons gradually work their way out of the caliper housings to keep the pads in adjustment. Brake fluid fills in behind the pistons, so as the brakes wear, the level goes down in the reservoir. This is one fluid we never top off during other routine services, such as oil changes. When the pistons are pushed back in to make room for the new pads, that pushes the brake fluid back up into the reservoir. If fluid had been added previously, now it will overflow creating a mess. Brake fluid eats paint too, so it must be washed off right away.

What this means is as part of the bleeding process, if the front pads are worn and will need to be replaced in the near future, don't fill the reservoir to the "full" line. You can fill it that full if the front pads are fairly new.

When doing anything with brake fluid, be extremely careful to not allow any type of petroleum product to get into the brake fluid or touch any rubber parts that contact brake fluid. Even a little oil stain on your fingertips can result in a very expensive repair. This includes engine oil, transmission fluid, axle grease, penetrating oil, and power steering fluid. Professionals even wash their hands with soap and water when working with rubber parts to avoid contaminating them with fingerprint grease.

Let me know how the job turns out and if you have other questions.