2001 BMW 320 Light braking causes ABS to go off.

Tiny
DAYCLONE
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 BMW 320
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 216,600 MILES
The current condition is that is has worn front sway bar links and lower front control arm bushings. It may be related to my problem below but I'm not too sure.

The issue is that when I go over small bumps in the road such as pot holes or uneven pavement and I apply my brakes, my ABS kicks in. Like the ABS pulse generator kicks in at the front at least it seems like its coming from the front that it pulses like when your on ice but I'm not. Its dry pavement.

Also if I brake slowly it does the same thing as above the ABS kicks in. Now I've recently change only my front brake pads and my rear's but could it also be that my brake discs are worn and causing this issue?

and I know my front passenger (right) squeals when braking and seems to rub when I turn right, like the rotor is rubbing against something and the sound is like its rubbing against something at a certain point but if I stop it stops and if I speed up it goes faster and faster but eventually goes away.

A response would be appreciated!
Thanks.
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Saturday, February 20th, 2010 AT 11:16 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
DR. HAGERTY
  • MEMBER
As a rule, I almost always replace the discs and pads together. Not only does this have safety advantages, but it eliminates the possibility of the brakes being called into question. Indeed you should replace the lower control arm brackets straight away. Tires are another factor, you need to asses the situation as you see fit. The ABS issue may or may not be related, is the warning lamp on right now? Or just when this occurs during the normal course of driving the car? Also, is an alignment called for, is the car align-able?
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Saturday, February 20th, 2010 AT 8:07 PM
Tiny
DAYCLONE
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Hello,

Yeah I will replace the rotors for sure! To see if this has an effect because I do notice that before this issue and I applied the brakes the car would shutter to slow down. My steering would stay fine but like the car itself would jerk/shutter when braking. This I heard could be an indication the rotors are warped, or they could have been improperly machined.

As for the tires they are fine, they aren't at the wear bar and in fact they still have a lot of meat left.

No warning lights of any sort, at one point the rear wheel speed sensor was defective which caused ASC/Brakes and E-brake lights to come on. I cleared the code, and nothing came back since but I should replace that sensor. I'm doing this tomorrow to see if it makes a difference. It could be that the metal particles from the pads over the years have caked onto the sensor and caused it to malfunction.

This problem occurs during normal course driving, and the car recently already had an alignment and the vehicle drives straight. When I let go of the steering wheel.
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Sunday, February 21st, 2010 AT 1:59 AM
Tiny
DR. HAGERTY
  • MEMBER
The rear wheel sensor will not require replacement, do not waste money and time replacing a perfectly good sensor.
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Sunday, February 21st, 2010 AT 9:03 AM

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