Axle or transmission problem after hitting a curb?

Tiny
VICTOR PHILLIPS
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 PLYMOUTH GRAND VOYAGER
  • 3.3L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 176,111 MILES
I recently had my van hit a curb at about 45 miles an hour. It bent my front right strut which I have a new one now and ever since then I haven’t been able to get my CV axle to turn even though the CV axle itself is fine. When I tried to put it all back together after getting the strut the wheel still wouldn’t turn. When I take the wheel off and remove the CV axle, it turns just fine, but it refuses to do so with the axle in it. I’m not sure if this is a problem with my suspension or if there’s an internal problem where my CV axle connects to my transmission.
Monday, June 23rd, 2025 AT 12:41 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 34,206 POSTS
Your description is rather confusing. "When I take the wheel off and remove the cv axle, it turns just fine but it refuses to do so with the axle in it." It sounds like the axle turns fine when it's laying on the ground.

When are you expecting the half shaft to rotate? Are you doing that with the front tires off the ground? If so, it is normal for just one side to rotate when running the engine in gear. The one that turns will be the one with the least friction. If you do this with the engine off, place the transmission in "park", then, when you rotate one half shaft forward by hand, the other one will rotate backward.

This gets a little more involved with an all-wheel-drive model. For the front shafts to rotate with the engine running, you need to have the rear tires off the ground too.

If you should find the right front half shaft never rotates with the engine, and it always rotates freely by hand, the inner CV joint isn't fully seated in the transmission. That is rather uncommon because that makes it almost impossible to install the rest of the suspension parts. With a front-wheel-drive half shaft, push up on the inner CV joint, then the spring inside it will pop the housing into place in the transmission. As I recall, with the all-wheel-drive model, you can't get the strut reattached until the inner shaft is fully seated.

If you're still having trouble, try to post a photo of the inner and outer CV joints, then I'll see if there is something I overlooked.
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Monday, June 23rd, 2025 AT 2:12 PM
Tiny
VICTOR PHILLIPS
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Yes it’s an AWD. And I mean my wheel hub turns when there’s no CV axle attached, but when I put the CV back on and connect it to the transmission it’s locked in place and won’t turn, however I haven’t lifted both sides of the front just the front right.
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Monday, June 23rd, 2025 AT 2:16 PM
Tiny
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Dandy. At one of my training classes, we were told to call this an "all-wheel-drive" system. "4-wheel-drive" implies it's meant for off-road fun. Also, most 4-wheel-drive systems can be disengaged to run on just one axle. That's not the case with yours. The front and rear axles are tied together, but not solidly like with 4-wheel-drive models. Yours uses a "viscous coupling" in the rear drive shaft. It's about the size and shape of a large coffee can, right at the front of the rear differential assembly. That unit has two sets of clutch plates, sitting in a very thick fluid. You can turn that by hand, but it's extremely difficult to do so. That unit is what allows the wheels to turn at different speeds when you go around a corner. For that reason, you need the rear tires off the ground so they can rotate too when you try to rotate the front. If the left tire is still on the ground, but the rear two are off the ground, you can rotate the right front shaft, but you'll likely need to use a pry bar stuffed into the cooling slots of the brake rotor. The easier way is to raise the left front tire off the ground and let it spin the opposite way that you turn the right front.

At Chrysler's class on this system, the day ended with each of us having the opportunity to drive through a large gulley filled with mud and wet grass. We were challenged to get the van stuck, but we couldn't. Filled the hood and roof with globs of mud, but we drove right out with little effort.
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Monday, June 23rd, 2025 AT 2:29 PM
Tiny
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I forgot to mention, the reason the right shaft is so long is it includes part of the rear drive gear train, so it's attached to the rear drive shaft, even when the transmission is in "neutral". It's the left side you should be able to spin freely by hand when in "neutral", but not the right side.

From everything you've said, I don't think you did anything wrong. Set it on the ground and try to drive it. The van will need an alignment because one of the two lower strut bolts is the "camber" adjustment. As the bolt with the offset head is rotated, the top of the wheel will tilt in or out on top. You can get that close, but not perfect.

Due to the interaction of the geometric relationship of the parts, you're also going to find the steering wheel is off-center now. That gets fixed as part of the alignment.

It it's too miserable to drive to the alignment shop, loosen those two lower strut bolts, then rotate the lower one to bring the wheel as close as possible to stand it straight up and down by eye.
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Monday, June 23rd, 2025 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
VICTOR PHILLIPS
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Update, I think I have it under control now, but not 100% positive. See when it hit the curb that caused the damage it was hard enough to pop both right side tires and bend the front rim nearly in half and the back one had a decent bend also. That’s why I was debating if something got Jard loose in the transmission side. Once I get at jumpstart I’m going to try and drive around. Will message back then. Thank y'all.
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Monday, June 23rd, 2025 AT 6:28 PM
Tiny
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I'm here about this time every day. I'll be expecting some good news.
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Tuesday, June 24th, 2025 AT 5:13 PM

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