Check engine code P1698

Same issues as what? It is great that you started a new question specific to your vehicle, but a set of symptoms can have a number of different causes. Until we know exactly what is happening, don't assume what fixed another vehicle will be the same solution for yours.

What kind of problem are you having, what other tests have you done, and what were the results?

That one was kind of hard to follow. Also, each of these threads becomes a private conversation between just two people, and as such, none of the other experts are going to see your addition or have a chance to reply. That may not get you the help you need.

The place to start is by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute. That will erase the diagnostic fault code in the Transmission Computer. Reconnect the cable, then try to crank the engine. If it starts, head to any independent repair shop to have the charging system tested. In particular, we want to know the "full-load output current" and "ripple voltage". The Transmission Computers are rather sensitive to voltage fluctuations caused by a defective diode in the alternator. That needs to be addressed before installing a replacement computer. With one bad diode of the six, the most the alternator will be able to develop is exactly one third of its rated current. At the same time, "ripple" voltage will be "high".

If you need to replace the Transmission Computer, look for one from a salvage yard. They're quite inexpensive and do not need to be programmed to your vehicle, but be sure to get one from a vehicle that had the same transmission, engine size, and tire size. Tire size isn't critical as it can be reprogrammed later to make the speedometer read right.

Some people have found code 1698 was caused by the Engine Computer. We never like to throw random parts at a problem, but in this case you'd need the Chrysler DRB3 scanner to be able to see what data is being shared among the many computers. Without a scanner, it can be difficult to figure out where to start looking.

Try to get the charging system test done, then post the results. If there is a problem with the alternator, there's no point in looking in a different direction until that is taken care of. If the system is okay, we'll need to think about finding a scanner to see if the Transmission Computer is transmitting any data when the no-crank problem is occurring.

P1389 - No ASD Relay Output Voltage At PCM

Signals from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor tell the Engine Computer the engine is rotating, then the computer turns on the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay. That relay sends current to the ignition coils, injectors, fuel pump or pump relay, and many other places. One of those other places is right back to another terminal for the computer to verify the relay got turned on. That verification voltage is the one detected as missing.

If the crankshaft position sensor was defective or intermittent, the computer would not turn on the ASD relay and the engine would crank but not run To set any diagnostic fault code, there is always a long list of conditions that must be met. One of those conditions is that certain other codes aren't already set. In this case, if the crank sensor signal was missing, the computer would not turn the ASD relay on, and it would know that, so it wouldn't set code 1389.

Code 1389 suggests the computer intended to turn the ASD relay on, but the 12 volts did not get switched onto the circuit. If that is true, the engine couldn't run. Given the nature of the intermittent failure to crank, it's starting to sound like the Engine Computer is not seeing the ASD sense voltage or the information coming from the Transmission Computer. This is where you really need a scanner to be able to talk back and forth with the computers, and to see what they're seeing and responding to.

Here again, you should start a new question specific to your vehicle. Unlike other sites where anyone can chime in to confuse the issue, here this becomes a private conversation with one or two people sticking with you until the problem is solved. As such, none of the other experts are going to see your addition or have a chance to reply. That may not get you the help you need.

Here's where to start a new question, if you need to:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Please be sure to list the engine size and mileage. We need the engine size to look up the correct diagrams, and we use the mileage when making generalizations as to the best suspects.

This original question is a year old. In that time, one thing that has become more-known is an intermittent transmission range sensor, formerly known as the neutral safety switch. One potential clue is the starter will work after shifting between gears a few times. The best way to identify this is if you can catch it when it's acting up, and you have a scanner connected to read live data. Under the "Transmission" menu, look at "gear selected" to see which gear is indicted. If it is not "park" or "neutral", the Engine Computer will not allow the starter relay to engage.

Another test would be to remove the starter relay, pop its cover off, reinsert it that way, then press down on the movable contact to engage the starter. (Be sure the transmission is in "park", but the ignition switch doesn't have to be on to do this. If the starter still doesn't engage, we'll need to look in circuits other than the neutral safety switch / range sensor. You'll need a test light and a helper to turn the ignition switch.