2000 Acura Integra low RPM bog/stall when warm

Tiny
ASIANZT
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 ACURA INTEGRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 73,000 MILES
There's no CEL and only happens when it's fully warmed up. First occurance was last week.

The problem occurs at 1k to 2k rpm and a slight miss at 2.5k occasionally. After that and when the car is still cold, the car drives well. If when the car bogs and I try to slam the throttle to get out of it, the car stalls completely.

First gear isn't much of an issue because it goes through that rpm range quickly at little throttle pressure but the other gears have this problem. I also found out that it doesn't occur if the throttle is slightly pressed but misses when I push in a little more.

I have not changed anything on the car; it ran well prior to the problem.

I have a narrow band a/f gauge that shows a constant sweep which is why I don't think it's the o2 sensor (but not throwing it out of the question).

What can cause this problem?
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Friday, August 7th, 2009 AT 9:12 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi asianzt,

Thank you for the donation.

Apart from the O2 sensor that can cause this problem, the other items I would check would be the throttle position sensor, MAP and fuel pressure.
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Friday, August 7th, 2009 AT 12:42 PM
Tiny
ASIANZT
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Thanks for your reply KHLow2008.

I have fuel pressure ( 40psi shows on my gauge). As for TPS and MAP sensors, wouldn't they cause problems throughout the rpm and not just at 1k-2k rpm or a warmed up car?

My problem only occurs during that rpm range and when it's warmed up.
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Friday, August 7th, 2009 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
TPS and MAP might work correctly when cold as the fast idle valve is compensating for the rich condition and when it warms up, the values would be different with no compensation from the fast idle valve.

One more item that I forgot is the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. This would affect the engine performance when the values are not correct ( it might not show on the MIL as the ECM knows it is working but the values are wrong).

A scanner to get the freeze frame data would allow you to monitor and check if the values are correct.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2009 AT 7:32 AM
Tiny
ASIANZT
  • MEMBER
I started with the basics and checked the spark plugs. However, as soon as I took out my spark wires, the tips seemed to be submerged in oil. Sure enough, I look down and there was a small amount of oil inside the hole. I checked the other holes and they were the same (#3 being the least).

I removed the spark plugs and cleaned out what I could. Reinstalled the plugs and wires. Right now, the bogging and stalling isn't has frequent and not as much. I assume there there's still some that I missed in the holes.

Right now -- the bogging would happen randomly and up to 2.5k rpm. Once I let off the gas and go at it again, it sometimes disappear.

The o-rings are brand new OEM. I double checked the torque on the valve cover and they were correct. Maybe I didn't get all the oil off? The terminals aren't getting a good contact? What would be good to use to clean the terminals?
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Monday, August 10th, 2009 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Apart from the plug seals, did you replace the valve cover gasket and bushes? When bushes are worn, they would not provide the correct compression required for the plug seals to completely seal.

To clean the plug tubes, I would normally use compressed air to blow the oil out with a rag covering the hole.

Get the plug wires ohmed to see if they are ok. Should have continuity and not more than 25 k ohms. To clean the terminals, I would suggest getting a can of contact cleaner, this is mostly used for electronics cleaning and clears out oxidations.
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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 3:18 PM

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