1999 ACURA INTEGRA ALTERNATOR REMOVAL

  • Tiny
  • jimmy3stix
  • 1999 Acura Integra

Electrical problem
1999 Acura Integra 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 80000 miles

Is there a way to replace the alternator without removing the left drive shaft? I have seen some posts about disconnecting the master cylinder and moving it aside slightly, though that was for an older model. If not, can it be done with the front end on ramps or must I use a jack and jack stands.

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Friday, December 26th, 2008 AT 2:17 PM

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  • Tiny
  • racefan966
  • Expert
  • 5,136 posts

Ok here is what I found for removing it and replacing it. Disconnect the battery cables, remove the battery and then the battery tray. Remove the adjusting rod and bolt, then remove the belt and the lower adjusting bolt, remove the upper adjusting bracket unplug it and remove it. Replace in reverse order. I hope this helps. Thanks and have a great day.

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Friday, December 26th, 2008 AT 10:02 PM
  • Tiny
  • Zackman
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http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/55316_380c_12_1.jpg



I don't know where Mitchell got their information from. The battery is on the other side of the engine bay. This is what what my buddies at Honda-tech has to offer. Obviously, you should remove the negative battery terminal before you start any of the work.

1. Jack up the car and put it on jack stands. You don't have to remove the wheel. Remove the big plastic splash shield under the car.

2. Unbolt the upper alternator bracket ant take it out. Leave the bottom alternator bracket in place. Take out the alternator pin bolt and nut. Take out the alternator belt adjuster nut and alternator belt.

3. From under the car pull back the rubber cover on the alternator and unbolt the bolt in order to lift the 2 wires of the alternator. Squeeze the tab on the green circular P connector and pull it free from the alternator (do this from the top). The wire harness that is attached to the green circular P connector has a gray tab that is inserted in a square opening on the alternator. Use a really long needle nose pliers to squeeze the gray tab and push it through the square opening.

4. Unbolt all the brackets and push aside all the hoses and wire harnesses around the top of the alternator area.

5. Unbolt the power steering hose. There are 2 bolts.

6. Have someone below the car pushing the alternator up and have the other person on top pulling it and wiggling it around to get it clear. You have to move it around quite a bit to get it to clear the Master Cylinder and the end of the fuel rail.

Have fun...

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Saturday, December 27th, 2008 AT 12:42 AM
  • Tiny
  • jimmy3stix
  • Member

Excellent advice guys, thanks much. I would like to note that I had to disconnect the power steering hose from the pump and also the fuel line. Alternastor was tough coming out but easy going back in. Advise people to remove alternator pulley down with lower mounting facing the rear of the car. That is how I was able to slip it in without a problem. Thanks again!

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Saturday, December 27th, 2008 AT 3:42 PM
  • Tiny
  • Zackman
  • Member

Glad it all worked out well for you.

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Saturday, December 27th, 2008 AT 11:36 PM
  • Tiny
  • jimmy3stix
  • Member

Ok, Replaced Alternator and still no charge to battery. Any ideas? I also have these codes P0500, P1298, and P0141. They are VSS cidcuit malfunction, ELD circuit high voltage, and Secondary O2 sensor Heater circuit failure. Any help would be appreciated. Just don't tell me the rebuilt alternator is bad and I have to replace it again. Lol ;-)

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Saturday, January 3rd, 2009 AT 12:28 PM
  • Tiny
  • KHLow2008
  • Expert
  • 41,997 posts

Hi jimmy3stix,

Test the charging voltage at battery mast and if it is providing 13.5 to 15.5 volts, the alternator is ok, you have a bad connection from alternator to battery.

If voltage is low, check the crankshaft pulley, if equipped with dynamic balancers, it could be bad and slipping itself on the pulley.

You might have a bad rebuilt alternator, I never like to use rebuilts. Used parts from scrap yard has lesser problem, but you never know ;)

When the alternator failed, you could have blown a fuse causing the above codes and non charging. The symptoms of the codes shows a bad wire connection somewhere or a faulty alternator.

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Saturday, January 3rd, 2009 AT 7:12 PM
  • Tiny
  • jimmy3stix
  • Member

Yea, no charge at battery post. Same reading with car off or running. As to the codes, I recently had the clutch replaced. Could the mechanic have left an open connection?

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Sunday, January 4th, 2009 AT 2:11 PM
  • Tiny
  • KHLow2008
  • Expert
  • 41,997 posts

Hi jimmy3stix,

If the alternator mast has no charging voltage, check for battery voltage when engine is not running. If battery voltage is available, the alternator is bad.

If you don't have battery voltage, you have a broken connection from battery to alternator. Check underhood fuse box main fuse Fuse # 41 ( 100 A ) and its connection to alternator.

I have attached a schematic for you.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_Charging99IntegraUSA01_1.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_Charging99IntegraUSA01a_1.jpg

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Monday, January 5th, 2009 AT 6:06 AM

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