Several weeks back, the SUV would not crank, the voltage on the battery was about 4.65 volts. Jumped it off and it cranked right up, and the voltage was reading 14.25 volts. Drove to auto zone, they tested the battery and alternator both indicated good based off their testing. Drove home and two days later, same thing, battery at 5.34 volts, jumped it off and again drove to AutoZone and the battery failed load test. Installed new ACM 180 battery, crank up and tested okay. A week later, you guess it, battery was drained 1.95 volts pull the battery out and place on charger 2amp - removed the alternator and carried to auto zone to have it tested while battery recharged. Alternator tested bad. Replace alternator and installed recharge battery 12.75 volts and ran for 4 days and battery is dead again. I started looking for a parasitic drain. Battery was showing 4.26 volts, I removed fuse F49 and voltage start increasing slowly. F51 when pulled it would drop increase voltage a little. I replaced all the fuses except F62 for the AC clutch and charged the battery back to 12.57 volts. Start the SUV with no issues. I shut it off and replaced the AC clutch fuses and it did not click. Started the SUV back up and noticed that with the dual climate control off, no manual AC on, that when I cut the fan on cold air was blowing out of the vent. I cut on auto controls and ran it up to high for both sides and got hit but clutch never released. I cut on manual A/C and off and clutch released. Cycling this a few times the compressor continued at times to continue to cool even thought the auto dual controls were off and the manual AC switch was not depress and it did not have a light on. I shut the SUV off and when I pulled F62 fuse the A/C clutch disengaged. I set my meter up again to measure voltage drop when the engine was cut off and with that fuse installed the voltage started dropping. What causes the A/C clutch to be still energized after the motor has been cut off?
have the same problem?
Tuesday, November 29th, 2022 AT 7:26 PM