Aeverything you mention is a possibility. By mot, do you mean a, "Manual Operation Test", or a trouble code test by scanner?
If it is a manual test, have the trouble codes scanned with OBDII scanner. If you scanned via OBDII, have a shop check brake line pressure with gauge. This will eliminate some possibiliteis in the process of elimination. Of course an OBDII scan is much easier and I would hold off on the pressure gauge test, depending on how much a rapair shop would charge.
First, have you had the back end up in the air and checked to see if brakes allow wheels to spin. That is a lot of bias, I can't imagine how you drive it without it spinning around.
I would do everything you can to the rear brakes to make sure they are loose. Look at condition of rear brakes in general. Make sure they, if caliper rears, are not siezed. If they are kind of seized and look like it may be from the piston having gunk or corrosion on it. Get some plubers tape or emery paper in the finest grit you can get, like 1400. Get some brake cleaner and get most of the gunk off with the plubers/emery paper. Touch the bre pedal ever so slightly to expose a clean surface so you know how far you need to clean. Then try cleaning the rest with a toothbrush. Basically trying to do as little scarring to the piston as possible while removing the gunk that may be keeping it from retreating into caliper.
Make sure all pad retention springs are in place and grease them along paths of movement where they touch with high temperature grease. Check parking brake for the simple fact of making sure it has no part in it, even though it most like cannot.
Bleed the system by bleeding the fathest caliper to the closest. Meaning, Bleed the paasenger rear first, then the drivers rear, then the passenger front and finally the drivers front.
Repat the cleaning and pad retention spring procedures for front calipers if necassary.
Note how much fluid is in each reserviour of the master cylinder as per the amount of wear in the front and rear pads. If somethinig is happening like the fronts were really worn, I know this is not the case just stretching for an analogy, and the fluid in the reserviour is near full, the master cylinder might have an issue.
You can kind of check for caliper piston movement when you touch the brake pedal to move the piston out for cleaning. BE VERY GENTLE WHEN DOING THIS AS THE PISTON WILL SHOOT OUT OF THE CALIPER WITH TOO MUCH PRESSURE. Also, don't be to afraid of cleaning the pistons as long as you don't re-surface the pistons with plaumber/enery tape.
Use shop towel and soak gunk with brake cleaner if necassay. I have actually puched it pretty far depending on how far out the line of gunk goes. The actual seal for piston pressure is a few centimeters into the caliper.
Are the rear pads wearing out really fast, as I image they would. This may have warped the rear rotors and that is just something to keep in mind.
A seized caliper in your car as new and as low as the mileage is would be pretty low on the probability scale.
If you have ABS brakes, definately need to test sensor and pump or before that, get an OBDII scan.
Proprtioning valves are pretty much set and the only thing I could think of is something blocking the entire front brake lines before the splitter. Unless you have dumped dirt into the master cylinder with the screen removed, I do not think that would happen unless you are just unlucky.
Check for leaks of course and you may want to measure the front rotors you bought. You never though until you mic em if they are within spec. I do not have the Renault specs as it is not a USA release. I would try to double check the spec on the rotor. If you have trouble doing so, let me know and I will try to get one of my friends over-seas to help us out.
I cannot think of much more to do at this time.
Let me know the outcome and I will get back to you ASAP if you need any help along the way.
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Tuesday, October 11th, 2011 AT 8:15 PM