2004 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 87000k miles
Hi, I purchased my Explorer in January 08, it's done 87,000kms and has just been serviced. My cruise control has been intermittant for several months and now I notice particularly when ABS light is on CC does not work. I sent the car back for servicing this week and mechanic noted there was NO fault recorded in the computer. The CC worked fine and ABS did not come on in the 24 hours following service but now the problem has started again.
Are the ABS and cruise control issues linked somehow? I notice more often than not that CC won't work when ABS light is on. Should there have been a fault recorded in the computer? Have you heard of this issue before and what possible causes or solutions are there>? Thank you!
Check fuses 18 and 38 in the battery junction box, under the hood. If Vehicle speed sensor is not working, abs and Cruise will be out. Brake lights work? Speedometer?
June, 15, 2008 AT 2:49 PM
Thanks, speedometer and brake lights work. Infact, everything else works fine except when ABS light is on CC does not work.
I just spent a lot of $$ servicing and looking for the fault, so will take the car back today and get them to check again, suggesting the fuses you mention.
July, 27, 2008 AT 11:50 PM
The ABS takes the signal from the tone ring on the rear axle and puts out a speed signal to the PCM, Cruise Control among others. It the speed sensor on the rear axle is beginning to fail it may not show up in the PCM trouble codes but should if they have an OEM scan tool that can read ABS DTCs. The Sensor is on the top of the rear axle and is not hard to replace.
October, 19, 2008 AT 2:21 PM
Guys, I just wanted to let you know that I am fairly certain of the solution to your problem. I was facing similar issues with cruise control working sparatically then not all, in addition I also had the ABS light comming on at seemingly random intervals. I am by no means a car expert, I found the solution on another forum, but cannot remember where it was to give it credit. The problem with forums most of the time is that no one ever finally posts what works.
Here is a quick test that you can perform to make sure that you have the same problem that I did, BEFORE you spend any money at all!
1) Pop your hood.
2) Locate the master cylinder (has a box on it that you put your breakfluid in).
3) Find the sensors on the top-side of the master cylinder with two wires.
4) Unplug this censor.
5) Then witha peice of wire and short out the censor plug and tape it in place with the electrical tape.
6) Start your vehicle and take it out for a test drive. If your ABS light does not come on and the cruise control works, your in business.
Now how to fix it permanently.
The part that you will need to replace is the cruise control switch (deactivator). It can be hard to find, so I will let you know that I found mine for 18.34 after shipping at Rock Auto.
1) go to http://www.rockauto.com
2) click on 'Part Number Search'
3) search for SW6349 (motorcraft part number)
I will try to see if I can better explain the steps with photos. My wife has the camera and is out shopping right now, but when she gets home I will see if I can better document the process.
Hope this helps your problem!
October, 21, 2008 AT 1:59 PM
Yes that can be a problem, on some Fords the cruise deact, switch was recalled, and the problem is the diaphram inside breaks, leaks fluid, the connector get wet, and crazy crap happens, even fires in extreme cases! But the RABS valve is a more common problem on the older ones, 04 it could be the deact switch. But this is an old post, so his problem may have been solved already?
April, 7, 2011 AT 9:09 PM
Addendum 2011: I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer Explorer, 4.6L, 4x4, w/o Advancetrac. At 94500 miles I started getting an intermittent ABS warning light that I could reset by restarting the engine and then this was eventually followed by an intermittent than permanent problem with the cruise control where it would not activate. Following the October 19, 2008 advice from tequil4 above, I found the 2-wire brake activation sensor on the master cylinder. I noticed some white crud on both the male & female connectors (could have been electrical grease, but maybe not) so I cleaned both ends good, remade the connection and the cruise control worked perfectly during the subsequent test drive. Hopefully it continues that way! Maybe you can be so lucky!
August, 2, 2011 AT 2:11 AM
I had this exact problem, shorted the switch and the cruise control now works fine. Ordered a new switch from rockauto for $25 (includes first class postage) $10 cheaper than auto parts store which would take 7 - 10 days anyway. Probably saved >$100 over taking to repair shop. Thanks for the info!
November, 15, 2011 AT 2:56 AM
Thanks all for the info on the cc deactivator switch. RockAuto by far the best oem supplier. Ordered on Thur, delivered on Sat. Now my daughters car is up and up, with least expense.