2004 Dodge Caravan fuel pump, filter, or pressure

Tiny
ASHGMAN87
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 115,000 MILES
My van just stopped running with no signs of it having problems. It cranks but won't start. Full tank of gas. Battery jumped but still nothing. Changed out the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft sensor with no luck. It started twice but only with my foot on the gas. Once I let off the gas it died.
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Thursday, July 16th, 2015 AT 8:20 PM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Please clarify the symptoms and what led up to this. You said the engine cranks, so why are you jumping the battery?

"Battery jumped but still nothing"

What does "nothing" mean?

For the record, when Chrysler fuel pumps fail from high-mileage, 99 percent of them fail to start up. Once they do and the engine is running, they very rarely fail while you're driving. Stalling problems are most commonly caused by the two sensors you already replaced. The clinker is the camshaft position sensor has a critical air gap and must be installed with a spacer on the end. Was yours a new sensor with a spacer or was it a used one? Incorrect air gap can cause intermittent stalling and / or a failure to start.

What led you to these two sensors? At any time did you read and record the diagnostic fault codes?

The big clue is the engine ran when you held the accelerator pedal down a little. Will it still do that? Was the battery disconnected recently? If so, you are going to have to hold the pedal down a little. There's an easy fix for that.
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Thursday, July 16th, 2015 AT 9:22 PM
Tiny
ASHGMAN87
  • MEMBER
There are no signs/symptoms that led to this. I filled up my tank, drove thirty minutes to the store, was inside for maybe 40 minutes, loaded up the van, started it up (started just fine) proceeded out of parking lot and it died, I put it in park, started it up again, it started up for around 2 or 3 seconds then died. Then it would just crank. Had to have it towed to my house.

I said "battery jumped" because most mechanics assume since im a woman Im not very car smart and this is typically the first question they ask, I have to jump it because when I tried to start it after I replaced the first sensor, it cranked then the battery died.

What I mean when I say " battery jumped but still nothing" is it didn't solve the situation. Obviously.

The new sensor DID have a spacer at the end.

I were not able to get a mechanic or someone like AutoZone to hook the van up to see the codes. I talked to several mechanics who told me that it sounded like bad sensors. (We talked over the phone, Van never went into the shop for them to look at it)

The battery was disabled for cleaning. The van only started twice with the gas pedal pushed. It then lost power and needed to be jumped. Again.
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Thursday, July 16th, 2015 AT 9:37 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Dandy.

"What I mean when I say " battery jumped but still nothing" is it didn't solve the situation. Obviously."

Don't be offended or say "obviously". It isn't obvious to anyone but you. WAY too many people say, "... And nothing". In the last year I can list dozens of totally different sets of symptoms that were all referred to as "nothing". I was told numerous times but I had to learn for myself, no matter well a test question is worded, if you have 100 students, you're going to see 100 ways it can be misinterpreted. That's why in all my replies, I'm very specific to avoid any confusion or misunderstandings.

As for diagnostic fault codes, those were erased when the battery was disconnected or run dead, so that information is lost. You will have caused another problem though, and that's why I asked if the engine will start and run if you hold the accelerator pedal down a little. Once the battery has been charged, (or jump-started), if the engine runs while holding the accelerator pedal down, the fix is to drive the van. The Engine Computer lost its memory when the battery was dead or disconnected. It has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it has to be in control of idle speed. Until that happens, you won't get the nice idle flare-up to 1500 rpm at start-up, it will tend to stall at stop signs, and it may not start, again, unless you're holding the accelerator pedal down 1/4".

To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.
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Thursday, July 16th, 2015 AT 9:57 PM
Tiny
ASHGMAN87
  • MEMBER
Awesome. I'ill try that in the morning. And please don't be upset about my statement.

"What I mean when I say " battery jumped but still nothing" is it didn't solve the situation. Obviously." -Meaning jumping the van obviously didn't solve the problem. I'm sorry if you took this wrong or thought I was being ignorant.

Anyways.I understand what you're saying. The only question I have left is how do I put it in drive if my foot is to stay on the gas pump?
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Thursday, July 16th, 2015 AT 10:09 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Hopefully you have two feet; one for the brake and one for the accelerator pedal. We are supposed to test-drive Chrysler products for our customers so we can do this relearn procedure without you ever even knowing it had to be done, but sometimes we're too busy. Then, we leave it up to you, but we need to explain the need to do it and the reason. Last year I was nursing an old battery for over six months before it finally totally failed, and I was carrying a spare and jumper cables. Every time I needed to use the spare battery I had this same low idle problem and had to drive with two feet. For me it was no big deal because I always use my left foot for the brake pedal anyway.

Don't get carried away. 1/4" on the accelerator is enough to keep the engine running. On some newer models, possibly even on yours, if you release the pedal very slowly, the Engine Computer may start to take over and bring the idle speed back up to where it needs to be. Mine is an old rusty trusty '88 Grand Caravan and that relearn only occurs after coasting. The conditions the computer is looking for prove to it that my foot is off the accelerator pedal and that's when the idle speed has to be under its control.
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Thursday, July 16th, 2015 AT 11:20 PM
Tiny
ASHGMAN87
  • MEMBER
I just wanted to update you. I got my van running. I had a mechanic come and hook it up for codes. Only code that showed up was the MAP sensor. So I replaced that. The van fired up right away then but was shaking bad. So we hooked it up again and a new code for my ignition coils popped up. Will be replacing those next week.

Thank you for you time and information.
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Friday, July 17th, 2015 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The good news is we're making progress, but I have to make you aware that diagnostic fault codes never say to replace parts or that one is bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, or the unacceptable operating condition. When a part is referenced in a fault code, it is actually the cause of that code only about half of the time. Mechanics first have to rule out corroded and stretched connector terminals, wires rubbed through and shorting to ground or to each other, and physical problems affecting parts.
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Saturday, July 18th, 2015 AT 3:41 PM

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