Took battery to be tested and charged, once replaced, car gets power but ignition wont crank when key is turned. Interior lights work, door dings when opened and key is in, head lights work, door locks work but I dont get any indicator lights on dash. Seems like the starter isnt getting power but all cables and wires seem to be fine and connected. What could be the cause and how can I fix it? Maybe a security feature needs reset?
Was it cranking before you had the battery tested and charged?
Standard or automatic?
Key on, does the battery light come on? Does the check engine light come on?
February, 20, 2013 AT 2:47 AM
Automatic turbo 1.8
Was running but sat for a few weeks and battery was low, tried to jump it first but it needed recharging.
Dash only lights up when head lights are on otherwise just the milage shows, none of the Indicator lights on the dash come on, even when key is first turned they dont flash.
February, 20, 2013 AT 2:49 AM
You must never disconnect the battery on a Volkswagen or let it run dead. Have it towed to the dealership to have numerous computers unlocked. That's a trick that was designed in by a few shrewd manufacturers to make money for their dealers after the sale.
February, 20, 2013 AT 3:14 AM
Oh my god you really have to get over this battery disconnect phobia!
To the original poster: Make sure the shifter is fully in park or try starting in neutral.
Ignition switch, park/neutral relay or starter solenoid.
February, 20, 2013 AT 3:16 AM
I've seen a lot of suggestions to reset some issues and tried a few and was able to reset the Windows. There's just so many different sequences that people have posted and they're all similar. I think I've found 11 different ways to reset the computers, all of which involve the locking and unlocking of doors along with opening the trunk or disconnecting and reconnecting the battery cables in specific order or amount of time. I start to get confused trying them and was really hopeful that someone actually knew if any of them actually worked. Didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars just because I took out the battery.
February, 20, 2013 AT 3:17 AM
Sorry, I got off track because of the above comment.
If circuit #15 (ignition power to dash) is not energized. It's either a fuse or ignition switch issue.
February, 20, 2013 AT 3:22 AM
Gear shift is in park and steering wheel locked. I will try putting it nuetral. It didn't have any cracking issues before this so I wouldn't think those other issues could just happen after removing the battery.
February, 20, 2013 AT 3:25 AM
** cranking ** not cracking
February, 20, 2013 AT 3:39 AM
It's not a shifter issue if you have no ignition circuit power. Sorry for the confusion.
With no ignition power, the ecm and tcm are not powered up and that's why the starter isn't being triggered.
February, 20, 2013 AT 3:45 AM
I'm just repeating what I learned at some really high-level schools. The instructor owns a specialty shop that only works on the one out of a hundred cars no one else has been able to solve. Their only customers are other shops. They have contacts at most manufacturers and often work with them on elusive problems. They have described how on some models if you disconnect the battery or simply move the throttle under the hood while the engine is idling, computers will lock the car. IF you can get the engine to start it may not come off idle regardless what you do with the accelerator pedal. That's the fine unnecessarily-complicated throttle-by-wire system. It may also not come out of park. We were told stories of Volkswagen owners having to drag their cars kicking and screaming off the hoist, stuck in park, and skidding them onto flatbed trucks for a trip to the dealer because aftermarket scanners wouldn't unlock the computers. Why should they? Any car thief can buy a scanner. So you bet I have a phobia about disconnecting batteries. GM, Volkswagen, and BMW are the worst offenders. We read about the insane problems people run into every day after they try to replace their battery, and this post is no different.