The started to pack up different lights have come on and the wife carried on driving til it packed up completely, as though the car was trying to get home but the electrical power needed at night was just too much for it.
The last thing she saw as it stopped was altenator failed
The car was dragged onto the tow truck, I told her to get the guys to call me but they knew best.
When the car was dropped off I disengaged the parking and gears so the car could be rolled into my garage.
I thought check battery, FLAT, but it was replaced a year or so back as kept getting "recharge battery" common fault but with the amount of juice these cars use for an hour after leaving them !
Anyway suspect Alternator to be duff.
Wanted to start car to check voltage from alternator cheaper to replace battery first maybe
Battery measured 12.30v so put an charge as ampage may be low
Measured whilst on charger still 12.30v going to 12.63v, tired jump start, other car kicking out 14.00v but when connected to jump points drops to 12.30v
So disconnected alternator
now battery getting as charge of 13.70
car will NOT start.
Cleared all reported errors using carsoft diags
on trying to start
noticed that when I put foot on brake press start and can hear clicking from engine bay but nothing. Take foot off brake press start and get the same clicking sound but NO "Press brake to start engine" warning appears unless I rapidly do the above in succession.
Can the car still be in gear even thought it says its in park on the gearshift?
I would like to repair the car myself as I have had far too many issues with my stealership. I am thinking its an alternator diode that has gone, could smell burning like diodes. Why give them the satisfaction of a large wedge of cash when I can buy myself a nice pint after completing a nice quick job.
so over to maybe someone who can give me a bit of guidance
You could remove the alternator and take it to a good parts store for testing. Some autoparts stores offer free testing.
As for the gear selector issue, I would locate and test the transmission range sensor. It may be electronic or electromechanical (if there is a shift cable). I wish I could provide a wiring diagram or schematic of some kind, but I do not have access to the technical data for your model BMW as I don't believe it is available here in the states.
October, 11, 2011 AT 7:27 PM
the altenator is seized. I thought this was the reason for the motor not turning or starting.
The car will not start from the push button start, just hear a clicking sound but not the starter solenoid
October, 11, 2011 AT 8:04 PM
Mik745 - I'm sorry to hear about your troubles, and I apologize for the misunderstanding. I also wish I could provide some advice or some technical data. However, I just don't have access to the specifics for your model. Maybe another technician will see this message and be able to provide more information. Your model BMW is not even listed in my technical database. I wish you good luck.
October, 11, 2011 AT 8:10 PM
Not a problem, I can get a new altenator for 200 notes so not that bad. My problem is no one can tell me why it won't start
with a full battery and in theory a not connected altenator lol
October, 12, 2011 AT 2:41 PM
Unless you have the proprietary scan tool and an SSS station, you will be there till the cows come home.
October, 12, 2011 AT 3:34 PM
I have run carsoft against the car and all errors have been cleared like say the EGS 507D error.
The gearbox release was set whilst I ran a test to ensure that carsoft was reading data from the car and ECU
The altnater has been sent away for repair as the top bearing was well and truly seized on and being a avid diy'er don't have bearing pulling kit. And the amount of times I have needed it this year would have been well worth it lol
October, 14, 2011 AT 5:20 AM
The car may have an issue with the CAS and if so, you will need the aforementioned software.